Ember has basked in the glory of being India’s first museum restaurant. But, the menu had run its course by the time Pawan Pal Singh Maini arrived to helm the kitchens as the new Executive Chef. Hailing from Faridabad, this culinary expert spent his first six months at the property gathering recipes to rework the cluttered card which previously featured dishes from across the country.
Invited to try out the intriguingly named ‘North West Frontier’ fare, I’m offered a warm welcome into the restaurant, whose revamped interiors have been relieved of the antiques. The well-lit space now features paintings and quirky artefacts. “Our choice of dishes have been anchored to the North Western side of the country right from the Punjab region to Lucknow in Uttar Pradesh. We’ve also fetched influences from outside the country from places like Peshawar in Pakistan and even Afghanistan,” informs chef Pawan, when asked about the restaurant’s metamorphosis.
Livening traditions
The starter, turra kebab, is brought in a handi (jar) and I notice that the entire cutlery has been replaced with copper to maintain authenticity. The kebab’s marination—with pounded coriander and garlic—hits me first, which I follow up with a piquant onion pickle from a selection that the butler places alongside the spread. “The response to our recent North-Indian food festivals has been quite positive. We realised that there are hardly any restaurants in the city exclusively serving North Indian food with such diversity in a fine dining setting,” says the chef, who has amassed international industry exposure over the past couple of decades. A familiarity on the menu is the use of Malabar prawns for the thick garlic-scented cream infused jheenga kali mirch. Don’t miss out on their Lucknovi biryani either.
Traditional tadka
When three kinds of bread including missi roti, rogini, and garlic naan appear on the table, you know you're in for a treat. I try each of the rotis by dipping them into a mildly-spiced yet appetising lamb shank dish called nalli nehari. “Over the years five-star (and other) kitchens have experimented too much with fusion cuisine. So, Ember will serve uber authentic dishes from the Northern belt,” informs chef Pawan, continuing, “We use a homely cooking style like using a sigri to prepare dishes like bhatti ka charga (tandoori chicken).” Relishing the tangy juice of the palak paneer ke koftey with soft spinach-cottage cheese dumplings, I feel remorse that I cannot pay more attention to the excellent dal makhani. But no matter how full you are, no one can say no to homemade kesari malai kulfi!
`1,400 onwards.
Open for dinner 6.30 - 11 pm.
Details: 2705777