When I received an invitation to taste the new organically inclined menu at the Park’s 601 all-day dining restaurant, I imagined myself turning into a hairy green caterpillar and munching on a lettuce leaf. “Is this going to be a Kashayam, (medicinal mix)?” I ask as I look at the first item on the menu: a soup that is described as “Murungai keerai and thengai paal latte”. In plain English, it means drumstick leaves and coconut milk. It appears as a pale opal of specked green in a semi-sweet cream base. It’s a revelation of how good a soup can be.
I realise that I’m being taken on a culinary journey to another world of tastes and textures. My inner caterpillar is enchanted. “I’ve had the most interesting day visiting a farm called Nallakeerai,” exclaims Darshini, the sharp suited PR at the Park. “It’s owned by Jeganathan, an organic farmer who has inspired this menu,” she says. Her eyes close as she describes how she inhaled the scent of a mint and lemon leaf. Soon, we too are munching fresh green mint leaves, popping purple berries of Mannathakkali and chewing slivers of amla (gooseberry).
Darshini was accompanied by two of the young chefs at the Park — Malar Mannan, who inspired the team to visit the village of Pakkam (35 km from Chennai) and K Saravanan, who transformed the produce they collected. One of the starters is arranged like a map of the garden. There are black nightshade leaves, the spiky mint, curling tendrils of edible flowers, small mounds of boiled white “little millet” (Panicum sumatrense) called Samai in Tamil, pink pomegranate and purple berries (Solanum nigrum) with crunchy pumpkin seeds served with a lemon-based dressing.
“We wanted to showcase the natural food wealth of Tamil Nadu in the same way as we do with our imported items,” explains Saravanan. “We have so many different varieties of rice, grains and fresh greens that never come into the market. They will disappear without anyone even knowing that they are there.” Saravanan is in charge of plating. He’s risen to the challenge without missing out on taste. From spicy mud crab to Barnyard Cannelloni, he’s nailed the brief.
Ultimately, it’s a Green Salaam to Jegannathan, the hero of the evening.
At The Park Chennai. Open for lunch and dinner till November 5. Vegetarian meal at Rs 899 and non-veg at Rs 999 (plus taxes). Details: 42676000