Chef Soju Philip’s contemplations on going back to culinary roots started long before the Food Safety and Standards Authority of India (FSSAI) launched their ‘Indian Food Culture’ campaign. Boasting an international industry exposure of 20 years—with stints in Miami-based Celebrity Cruise and Virginia-based Best Western—he was already working on a book detailing the culinary history of Kuttanad when he came on board as the Executive Chef at Ramada.
“I specialised in continental and Mexican fare during my life abroad. But, after returning to India in 2009 I became interested in tracing and reviving the lost recipes of my Motherland Cuisine,” says Soju, as we sit in Pearlspot Seafood Restaurant where we were invited to try out the new menu which features over 25 dishes. From Fort Cochin Tangy Shrimp to Pomfret Recheado, the chef focuses on quirking up the native fare by accommodating influences from the West.
Western touch
The first course at the 38-cover lakeside casual dining space is a Bermuda fish chowder, hot and tangy with tomato and lemon playing their significant roles. A rather thick American soup, chowder sometimes even doubles up as a main course preparation. Without further delay, the chef starts unleashing his native delicacies with a prawn starter. “This is the result of a Western approach to two of every Malayalis’ favourite ingredients, thenga (coconut) and manga (mango),” says the 42-year-old who hails from Adoor, as I bite down on the coconut-crusted prawn and the sweetness of the mango mayonnaise dip explodes in my mouth.
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Motherland marinades
The kanava kothularthu platter—aesthetically served in a cut coconut shell—is primarily a feast to the eyes. “At one point of time, coconut and oil were avoided by people. But now, it’s finding a place in kitchens, with the West embracing virgin coconut oil over olive variants,” informs the chef, as I try the salty and slightly piquant dish loaded with shallots.
Soju proves that the last impression is the lasting one with his signature Karimpanadan Karimeen Vara. An innovative recipe for Kerala’s famous pearlspot, this grilled dish features a whole boneless fish stuffed with chopped and sauteed prawns. Masala grilled vegetables, fish molee gravy, and kallappam add to the twist. To complement the mild flavour of the pearlspot, the menu suggests pairing it with a fruity sparkling wine. The pannacotta—also infused with Kerala’s namesake fruit—is a fresh approach to a western-yet-naadan ending for a perfect dinner.
Meal for two from `1,800 onwards
From October 1. 7 - 11 pm.
Details: 3011100