Make a donation to help Kerala, as part of your Onam sadhya this weekend. Chef Regi Mathew’s Kappa Chakka Kandhari, the newest restaurant serving Kerala cuisine in the city is donating a chunk of their proceeds to the Chief Minister’s Distress Relief Fund. To accommodate more takers, the three-day affair, starting today, will be held at the Railway Officers Club on Sterling Road — which can seat 150.
Unlike the usual pure vegetarian spread, “This feast will also include some meat on request,” Chef Regi, who is also a partner in the venture, says for the benefit of non-vegetarians. But over a preview tasting, we stick to traditional favourites which quickly have the Keralites in the room homesick. “I miss home already,” a Malayalee woman next to me remarks, as the rich aroma of spices fills the air. Banana leaves are neatly laid out with the typical chakkara perriti, yam chips, banana chips, puli inji, mango thokku and lemon pickle. As we start with the savouries, women dressed in the traditional set sari walked around the table serving portions of the main meal. First came the rice in the centre, followed by a host of side dishes. My favourite was the pineapple pachadi, sweet and tangy at the same time. Add to that, a little bit of vellarika pachadi and it balanced out the sweetness, not to mention the crispy papadam. As I try mix a handful of rice with one dish at a time, my neighbour corrects me: “That’s not how you eat sadhya. Mix it all up,” she says.
Although, a little hesitant at first, I’m glad I took her advice. My mouth was suddenly exploding with flavours I couldn’t even put a finger on. What was sweet, spicy, bitter, I couldn’t tell. Every ingredient is carefully chosen and geographically tagged, I am informed. “Our chillies, plantains, coconut and tapioca, are all sourced from different parts —Allepey, Bengaluru and Trivandrum... ” Chef Regi speaks on quality ingredients.
Meanwhile, I take my second serving of erissery — a mild sweet curry with pumpkin, cowpeas and coconut. Just when I think I am full, the desserts arrive. Think Chakka pradhaman (jackfruit), payar payasam (lentils), pazham (plantain) pradhaman and pal ada payasam (flakes of cooked rice, milk and sugar). It may be a bittersweet Onam for thousands this year, but if there is anything that can put a smile on your face, if even for a second — it’s payasam.
August 24 to 26. The Onam sadhya will be priced at Rs 500 excluding taxes.