On the one hand, there is the passionate commitment to all things bread and beautiful by Samia Sait. For the last four years, Samia has been the force behind the Tryst bakery and delicatessen on the crowded ECR. And now, there is the added attraction of Nasrin Karimi. The inspired chef and founder of Cafe Shiraz Nasrin has brought her own brand of Persian hospitality along with her brother Dariush who provides the charm.
Setting the mood
To echo the words of the Sufi poet Sa’di Shirazi from her hometown in Southern Iran: “Whatever makes an impression on the heart is lovely to the eye”. The former café has been opened up with a glass wall that looks into an indoor garden shaded by a canopy of hanging bunches of grapes. For entertainment, there is a circus of cats, tiger-striped and in black and white who frolic in the grass. They keep an eye for the waiter who makes his way from the bakery at the far end balancing two cream covered cakes, one on the outstretched palm of each hand like an impromptu Karagam dancer into the café.
Berry pillau, anyone?
In culinary terms, it is a mingling of two different fragrances. At Tryst, there is the deeply satisfying aroma of freshly baked apple tarts, quiche tartlets and farmer’s sandwiches displayed like artworks under the glass counter. And now like a conjoined twin, Café Shiraz offers the heady fragrance of ‘Berry Pillau’ and kebabs that characterise the best of Nasrin’s cooking.
“Everyone knew about Shiraz, but previously it was tucked away at the end of a lonely beach,” explains Samia, “Now they are right here where everyone can see them.”
Breakfasts are the same as before. They start at 9.30 am and for Rs 350 you can have a hearty English style breakfast — toast and two eggs, roast potatoes, mushrooms and grilled tomatoes. Many of the other Tryst staples continue.
Bride’s ankles?
We can’t wait for Nasrin’s lunch. It starts with a tall frosted glass filled with her famous Guava slush, gelatinous Subzaseeds and crushed ice. The starters arrive a little later, chicken morsels stuffed with a green chili, pitta bread and dips, melon and feta cheese salad, grilled paneer slices, and prawn fritters.
The main course consists of platters of Iranian style pillau with different accompaniments — kebabs, stews of meats and vegetables, fish lightly served with corn bake and to crown it, flakey white naans and mutton. It is so tender it lives up to its name ‘Bride’s ankles’.
Shiraz has finally found a home.
Open from 9.30 am to 10 pm. Meal for two is priced at Rs 1,200.