Sample vintage South Indian recipes at Savya Rasa

 From thengapal rasam to an exquisite elaneer pudding - Savya Rasa has over 110 dishes that have us oh so excited for round two!
Sainu Thathas Kozhi Kebab
Sainu Thathas Kozhi Kebab

I am quite the enthusiast when it comes to South Indian non-vegetarian offerings – so when Nikesh Lamba tells me that their latest restaurant offers that and more – my curiosity is piqued. “The USP of Savya Rasa, to begin with, was actually to introduce South Indian cuisine to regions where it is not well known and where often it is perceived as merely idli-dosa-sambar,” begins Nikesh, who is one of the three partners of Pricol Gourmet, the enterprise that brought us Double Roti and more recently Soy Soi. The traditionally-attired staff and the décor that is heavy on cultural South Indian symbols at the 60-seater restaurant, further add to that thought.

<em>Nikesh Lamba, Vikram Mohan & Japtej Ahluwalia</em>
Nikesh Lamba, Vikram Mohan & Japtej Ahluwalia



So what are they doing in Chennai, cheek-to-cheek with their new Asian restaurant, Soy Soi, in Kotturpuram? Japtej Ahluwalia, also a partner, tells us that it is about bridging the gap between a five-star fine dining experience like Dakshin or Southern Spice, and the numerous mess style diners in the city with this month-old project. “We want to give you a taste of exquisite South Indian flavours with a fine dining vibe – but at a reasonable cost,” says Japtej who was Nikesh’s batch mate at ITC Hospitality Management Institute, back in 2008. We concede that Nikesh, who hails from Chandigarh and Japtej, a Delhiite (though they both swear they are Chennaiites currently!)  make for an incongruous team for a South Indian project. Enter the third partner, Vikram Mohan, who has his roots in Coimbatore and his heart in the kitchen. In fact, Vikram started the first Savya Rasa in Pune, along with the brand chef Sheik Mohideen, they scoured the kitchens across the Southern states to unearth forgotten recipes and delicacies.

They tell me it took them nearly four years of research and a bank of 600 workable recipes — before the menu of some 110-odd dishes was finalised here. The team of serial restaurateurs is already ready with their next project — a pan-Indian restaurant called Bharat Bistro — this is besides taking Savya Rasa to Bengaluru and Delhi next.

<em>Thalassery Chemmen Biriyani</em>
Thalassery Chemmen Biriyani
<em>Kulukki sherbet</em>
Kulukki sherbet

Once the food begins to arrive at our table I understand their spiel better — in fact, a bite of their Sainu Thathas Kozhi Kebab successfully obliterates all rational thought and sends us on a coconut cream coated culinary adventure of juicy chicken chunks that look like a close cousin of the malai kebab. The thenga paal rasam is a tasty, brothy, mild soup and for those who like a hit of pepper, the Chettinad Nandu rasam is robust with the crab flavour. Sipping on a Kulukki Sherbet, the refreshing mix has a sharp taste of green chillies, we munch on Pacha Masala Meen Fry, which is smeared with a fresh herb mix. The mains see us gushing over the perfect appams and the veg stew, even as the Thalassery Chemmen Biriyani, a pot of aromatic rice, smothering flavoursome masala coated prawns come along. The side of hand-pounded coconut chutney is addictive.

However, the bun parothas steal everybody’s thunder – plump, flaky and sweetish, I am willing to make a meal and dessert of it! The Pollachi Kari Kuzhambu alongside was a surprise, with delicate flavours of brinjal, drumstick seeping into the curry where the mutton pieces obligingly melt in our mouths – yes, all meat is boneless here!  The Kannur delicacy, the Elaneer pudding is a translucent blob that stays true to the tender coconut flavour and is a fittingly light end to a heavy meal.

 Meal for two at about Rs 1,800.
 

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