Travel diaries: Stories of love and loss in Zagreb, Croatia

Quiet and untouristy, Croatia’s capital demands attention for its historic and cultural attractions, as well as its stories of love and loss. 
The Lenuci or Green Horseshoe
The Lenuci or Green Horseshoe

“Prepare yourself, because this will come as a shock. Hold your phones tight! We’ve had many a cracked screen litter these paths.”

With these ominous words ringing in our ears, we stood, clutching our phones, gazing up at a stone tower.

A cannon snuck out of the small window, and then, we heard a blast. All that remained was smoke and cardboard confetti. The man responsible for the auditory assault leaned out, waved, and disappeared. 

Once we recovered, our guide Luca, relieved at the lack of broken phones, told us about this ceremony.

The fortified Lotršcak Tower, dating back to the 13th century, was built to guard the southern gate of Gradec (Upper Town). 

“In those days, the bell tower was used to tell time. It ran at 9 pm every evening to let people know the gate was locked, and 9 am again, once it opened. A cannon shot was fired at noon to let the bell ringers know the time. Now it’s a tradition,” he adds.

Firing the cannon today is a job of honour. There’s a uniform, a few minutes work and applause, but the man in the tower remains hidden. 

<em>View of Zagreb Cathedral from Upper Town</em>
View of Zagreb Cathedral from Upper Town

Zagreb is often considered an underrated destination in Croatia, losing out in popularity to places like Split and Dubrovnik, now overrun with Game of Thrones fans. As I find out, it’s a city that doesn’t try too hard to sell itself.

It’s greatest assets, be it in history, culture, food, and science, are barely celebrated. It’s what makes discovering them all the more rewarding.

Take Nikolas Tesla, for instance. One of the country’s most famous sons, he was out of the limelight for most of his life. In Zagreb, they revere him — the greatest mind that ever lived.

A pensive statue of Tesla, created by another great son of the soil and his friend, Ivan Meštrovic, sits at the beginning of a buzzing street named after the inventor. I discovered another tribute to Tesla in the Upper Town — a series of graffiti, showcasing his contributions to the world.

This is overshadowed by a giant blue whale painted on a rundown building above it. French street artist Etien created two anamorphic murals — the whale and, on the ground nearby, a turtle that appears to be swimming in air.

My visit to Zagreb begins with an exploration of the Upper Town, where Luca spoke about the two original settlements on the hills of Kaptol and Gradec. Lanterns dotted the streets, each of which possess a number plate, run on petroleum, and are turned on and off every day by one man.

I also witnessed the changing of the guards ceremony at the city’s most photographed church, St Mark’s.

Here, the red uniforms and cravats of the guards match the church’s roof, sporting the medieval coat of arms of Croatia, Dalmatia and Slavonia. 

<em>Zagreb Cathedral</em>
Zagreb Cathedral

‘Meet you under the clock’
I find the quiet usually associated with churches at the Stone Gate. “This gate was built into one of the many walls surrounding the city, and completely burned in 1731. Only one thing survived, a painting of the Virgin Mary holding Jesus,” he says.

Today, the linen painting has a home in a small chapel, which abounds with tokens of gratitude for wishes answered. “She is the patron saint of our city,” whispers Luca. As we leave, I pass by another historic monument, the Black Eagle Pharmacy, the city’s oldest pharmacy running since 1355.

A plaque on it mentions that Dante Alighieri (writer of Divine Comedy) grand-grandson Niccolo worked in it.  

Around the corner is an unusual museum dedicated to another kind of healing. The Museum of Broken Relationships is a physical treasure chest of stories of lost love and heartbreak.

Each exhibit tells a story, though some of them — one explicit account of child sexual assault — are a little hard to digest. I seek solace in the museum’s gift shop, which offers eraseres to wipe out mistakes, and pencils to break when in pain.

A good place to shop for less snarky souvenirs is the Dolac market, a popular farmer’s market selling cream cheese, olive oil, sauerkraut, cravats, and cheap food. It is here that I first spot the famous spires of the Zagreb Cathedral. 

<em>View from highest point, Zagreb 360°</em>
View from highest point, Zagreb 360°

The Roman Catholic neo-Gothic cathedral is the tallest building in the country, with its 108 metre high peaks. It has seen much damage, a fire in the 13th century and then an earthquake in 1880 — a stopped clock on the outside showcases the time — 7.03 — when the earthquake hit.

Inside, I find frescoes, stained glass windows, a Baroque pulpit, and three ornate chandeliers believed to have once belonged to a casino in Las Vegas. 

The spires tower over the city and are best viewed from the Zagreb 360° — observation deck on the 16th floor of a skyscraper in the main square in Lower Town. From here, I get the clearest view of the two hills, and the Ban Jelacic square.

Dotted with musicians and performers, it has the equestrian statue of Ban (governor) Josep Jelacic and a clock to the west. “The clock is a meeting point. You will always find people saying, ‘I’ll meet you under the clock’,” says Luca.

Another popular meeting spot, for witches once upon a time, was at the other end of the square. The Manduševac Fountain was built above a natural spring that provided Zagreb with drinking water. This place also has a legend connecting the spring with the city’s name.

On a hot day, a battle-worn Croatian war leader asked a beautiful girl, Manda, to scoop some water for him. The Croatian word for ‘scoop up water’ is ‘zagrabiti’ — the spring was named after the girl and the city after that scoop of water. 

Zagreb, where every fountain and clock tell a story! 

<em>Tesla graffitti</em>
Tesla graffitti

Useful information
Flights:
Mumbai has flights (one stop) to Zagreb; it is connected to other European capitals/cities via bus (Flix/Eurolines).

Visa: Schengen, opt for multiple entry on the form.

Stay: Dots Hostel in Donji Grad has neat and comfortable rooms named after different European cities; their breakfast is excellent.

Shop: Pick up local and organic produce, including olives, truffles, blueberry wine at the Heritage — Croatian Food, off the Central Square.

Explore: Spend a relaxing (and free) afternoon exploring the Lenuci Horseshoe (the Green Horseshoe), a U-shaped system of city squares with parks. 

Festival guide
PIF, the International Puppet Theatre Festival
September 15–21
The festival was founded in Zagreb in 1968 and includes workshops, book promotions, exhibitions, plays, competitions for children, and performers from all over the world. 

Zagreb International Chamber Music Festival
October 12-20
This cultural event showcases some of the world’s most prominent musicians performing as ensembles in six thematically conceived concerts, covering music from baroque to contemporary authors. 

PSSST! Film festival
November 8-10
An international festival of silent films (of all genres), it also showcases programmes and projections of selected classical and contemporary films. 

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