Ujjainee Roy
Out with cool pastels
Karisma Kapoor is wearing the 'Valli' mustard yellow Anarkali set by designer Mrunalini Rao (priced at Rs 2.95 lakh). It features heavy zardozi embroidery on the empire-waist bodice, resham floral jaal work on the kalis, and a matching organza dupatta.
Palette shift
While pistachio green offered a cool-toned, European-inspired lightness, mustard brings depth, nostalgia, and warmth back to Indian celebrations. It carries the cultural weight of traditional marigolds, turmeric, and autumnal festivity, but without the harshness of bright primary yellow.
Why it's trending
High-end couturiers are moving away from washed-out pastels in favor of rich, saturated earth tones. The shift isn't about neon brightness; it is about textured, nuanced shades like warm turmeric, saffron mustard, and golden-hour ochre.
Why mustard works for ethnic wear
When rendered in fine silk or layered organza, these shades absorb light differently than flat pastels, giving the garment a three-dimensional, heirloom feel.
How to style mustard?
Look for pieces featuring unexpected threadwork accents, such as coral, dust pink, or lilac resham, to break up the warmth. Balance with cool jewellery, tone down the intensity of mustard with fine layered diamonds, platinum settings, or white-gold polki pieces.