It was during an interaction with a long-time client at her studio that noted designer Purvi Doshi first got the idea to work on Kotpad weaves from Koraput, Odisha. On National Handloom Day, August 7, she launched a limited edition line of saris from the region, which is notorious for naxalite activity. “This client works towards the upliftment of tribals, and she shared her experiences of interacting with the tribes living in Koraput. She said I should definitely explore the weaves the tribes there create. I was amazed that in such troubled areas, we have such a beautiful craft. So I visited the region and my travel inspired me to create a complete collection of Kotpad saris,” shares Purvi, whose label is vegan and PETA-approved.
The fabric is known for its rough texture and is primarily dyed a reddish hue with Indian Madder or Aal. The natural unbleached offwhite colour of the fabric is also offset with black and grey, and traditionally features embroidered motifs like crabs, conches, boats, bows, axes, fans, pots, temples, palanquin bearers and snakes, drawn from nature and the weavers’ surroundings. “There are absolutely no chemicals involved in the process of making these saris. And many people believe that these weaves are medicinal, because of the use of madder,” explains the Ahmedabad-based designer, who believes in hand-crafted, responsible and cruelty-free fashion.
In Purvi’s collection, offwhite fabric has been contrasted with red and black dyes. In some cases, all three colours come together on a single sari. The weaves bear quirky and interesting motifs that range from women carrying pots on their heads to animals, huts and varying sizes of fish. “We never change or modify traditional art, We just add a little contemporary touch to it in our silhouettes, designing, placements or detailing. We believe that when we ask the weavers to change their age-old methods, they become more confused,” she reveals.
Post the launch of the limited edition saris, Purvi will be busy with her bridal collection, 8th Vow, which is expected to hit shelves by the end of August.
Rs.5,000 upwards. Available online