Few things strike immediately when one hears the word ‘British era.’ The decadent tea parties, folks jiving at opulent get-togethers and larger than life bungalows flanked by neatly manicured gardens. ‘Dak Bungalows’ or post offices that doubled up as rest houses during the era were also responsible for the conception of Anglo-Indian cuisine, blending distinctly Indian spices with British dishes.
The Monsoon Dak Bungalow Sunday brunch at Food Exchange showcases these nostalgic flavours, featuring classic British, Anglo-Indian and regional recipes that were popularised back then.
We stepped into the lively space as singers filled the air with peppy, foot-tapping pop hits. The live grilling counter dished out old classics like the Anglo Indian chicken tikka, Railway chicken reshmi kebab and an assortment of vegetarian kebabs. The Chaat counter beckoned, and we had to dig into a Pani puri immediately.
The kebabs arrived at our table soon after. The Beetroot and green shami kebab was a revelation, with deep, rustic flavours nearly making us forget the absence of meat in the bite. The Smoked mushroom galouti was equally delicious, with a familiar creamy texture that made us reach out for more. The monsoon tawa fish was a favourite at the table, with crispy fish in delicate spices amping up the comfort.
The use of coconut milk, stew-like dishes and gravy-rich curries were popularised during the British Raj, executive chef Amanna Raju tells us between courses. From the mains, the Malabar fish curry and the Prawn moilee were absolutely decadent, paired with steaming hot rice, for added comfort on a rainy day.
The Railway mutton curry, synonymous with the Dak Bungalows, was phenomenal when paired with hot naan, straight out of the tandoor. Blended with rustic spices like cumin and pepper, the dish stood out.
The buffet featured a whopping variety of desserts, all featuring chocolate in various avatars. Our favourite for the afternoon was the Mango and chocolate pudding topped with fresh figs that balanced flavours beautifully.
Meal for two: `6,576++ .On till July 31. 6.30 am to 11 pm. At Novotel Hyderabad Airport, Shamshabad.
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