More curvy models than ever showed up on Milan runways this season, due mostly to a single show by Brazilian designer Karoline Vitto, while designers of colour showcased their work at collateral events meant to promote their visibility in the backrooms of Italian fashion. Wherever diversity and inclusion were being celebrated during Milan Fashion Week, which ended Sunday, there was one underlying refrain: Make more space.
“We made history! It was incredible,’’ world-renown curvy model Ashley Graham gushed as she embraced London-based Vitto after Sunday’s show.
Plus-size models like Graham, Precious Lee and Paloma Elsesser are often the only curvy models on fashion runways for any given show, but for Vitto's preview, Graham led an entire cast of models ranging in size from UK 10 to UK 24 (US 6 to US 20).
According to a media report in March, just .06 per cent of 9,137 Fall-Winter 2023-24 looks across 219 shows in four fashion cities featured models over size US 14, underlying the lack of size diversity. By comparison, some Milan brands typically size up to 48 Italian (US size 12), while some, notably Dolce & Gabbana which sponsored Vitto, has extended some looks up to an Italian size 52 (US 16).
Graham wore an edgy black ripped corset and long sheer skirt, while other models wore form-hugging jersey dresses fitted with S-shaped metallic fixtures that sculpted their curves. She used the same technique for bathing suits. “It feels normal,’’ Graham said, calling on more designers to get more curves on the runway. “If I feel normal on the runway with this many girls, that means that there is something that doesn’t feel normal when I am on the runway with everybody else.”
Showcasing small poc brands
After working in fashion for decades, Deborah Latouche launched her own brand after converting to Islam and realizing how hard it was to find clothes that were “luxury, high-end and modest.”
Latouche brand, Sabirah, was highlighted along with US brand BruceGlen at the Milan Fashion Hub for new and emerging designers, sponsored by Blanc Magazine’s Teneshia Carr and the Italian National Fashion Chamber. The Hub offered space to meet buyers and other people interested in new brands.
“Something like this is really important because small brands such as myself can get really overlooked,’’ said Latouche, who has shown her brand in London, where she is based. “We put a lot of work in but we don’t necessarily get a lot of recognition. Being invited to Milan “is an amazing platform that gives us the potential to elevate and that is really important,'' she said.
Twins Bruce and Glen Proctor have been working on their brand for 17 years and relished the time in Milan showing their creations to a new audience while they also connect with their true creative intentions. “For a long time we did black and white, based on what we thought the industry wanted,” Bruce Glen said. Now they are doing what comes naturally, “Colours, prints and fur.’’
Carr said presentations where people can touch the wares are a great way to connect people with a new product, without the huge expense of a runway show. “The fashion system isn’t working for anyone but the 1 per cent. I am all for trying to make new systems where everyone gets paid and people get clothes that make them feel better,’’ she said.