At Aisha Rao's atelier, each collection is a transcendent portal to a visceral world — SS’23 Starboard and Por t anchored us to the enchanting seascape, Trencadís took us to Spain’s cultural capital, Barcelona, while Paper Dolls ringed in the festive cheer back in 2022. This time, the designer immerses us into the old world charm of 19th century Bohra Vad havelis of Sidhpur in Gujarat that served as the template for her new occasion wear drop Banafsh.
“The name Banafsh in Persian means shades of magenta, purple, violet and lavender which are also colours extensively found in the Bohra Vad havelis,” Aisha opens the conversation by adding, “These magnificent havelis, with their architectural splendour, served as a major inspiration for our collection. Also, the colour palette coincidentally aligns with Pantone’s colour of the year — viva magenta.”
These stunning havelis splashed in romantic pastel hues emanate a vintage charm. “We chose this location because the facades of these havelis exhibit the confluence of pastel-coloured magnificence and the splendour of architecture with Victorian, European, Indian, and Islamic influences. These havelis are reminiscent of the lives of the nomadic Dawoodi Bohra community while also reminding us of how India remains a melting pot of cultures,” the designer reflects.
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Inspired by Victorian and Baroque motifs, Aisha’s designs weave visual splendour on lehenga sets, sherwanis and kurta sets. The rich silhouettes are dipped in the celestial medley of gentle hues like rosy pink, magenta, vintage green and a range of pastel tones to depict a timeless charm. They come to life with the designer’s metier in exquisite embroideries like appliqué work that adds dimension to every garment, aari and zardozi that accentuate the metallic opulence and mukaish work that embellish the outfits with sequins as if capturing stardust in its ethereal embrace.
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Reflecting on the design process, the city-based designer shares, “The design process involved meticulous attention to detail. The motifs were inspired by Victorian and Baroque motifs adorned on the walls of the havelis. The colour palette embraces the shades that are commonly seen across the streets in Sidhpur. In addition, floral motifs have been thoughtfully incorporated, complementing the overall soft tints. ” While the Hyderabadi designer often uses a burst of colours in her designs, with Banafsh, she decided to experiment with an understated palette and absolutely “loved the outcome”.
Telling us about her favourite pieces, she says, “They are the Ziba and Alya lehenga ensembles from the pastel palette, as well as the red bridal lehenga, Tara, paired with the Arman’ men’s Bundi set from our signature palette.” Banafsh caters to the desires of the new-age bride by offering a contemporary take on traditional bridal wear. The designs are thoughtfully crafted to reflect the bride’s individuality and style, featuring modern silhouettes, embellishments and lightweight fabrics.
Telling us what makes the edit unique at a time when the market is flooded with occasion wear, she adds, “Each season, we work with a concept and devote considerable thought to our collection. For our previous collection, Trencadís, we had the opportunity to shoot internationally in Barcelona, Spain. As for Banafsh, we travelled to Sidhpur. Our followers can always look forward to a visual treat with each of our collections, as we make every effort to create a captivating narrative. This new edit too stands out with its distinct colour palette, intricate embroidery work, and thoughtfully curated design elements.”
Price on request. Available online and in-store, Banjara Hills.
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