Magic happens when fashion transcends the realm of aesthetic value and triggers social change. Well - known fashion designer Mayyur Girotra’s latest collection Aikya, dedicated to South Asia’s Queer and the LGBTQIA++ community, stands as a testimony to this phenomenon. What made history is the Indian couturier kick-started this year’s New York Pride by unveiling his first genderinclusive luxury prêt line in collaboration with Pride at Google and the Indus Google Network. Despite being a remarkable professional achievement, the groundbreaking event served as a collective triumph for the entire Indian fashion community. As Mayyur showcased Aikya, time stood still before reverberating into a thunderous applause. Fashion stalwarts at the event stood in collective awe experiencing a mind-blowing blend of art, vibrant colours, intricate craftsmanship, inclusivity, progress, transformation and someone’s belief in a more progressive outlook. Elated and excited, the designer speaks to us about Aikya and the ways in which it transcends to a “love letter to the LGBTQIA++” community.
The New York Pride was infectious
Mayyur says that the opportunity to debut Aikya during the Pride Month at the New York Pride was a dream come true. The opportunity allowed him to express his creativity, individuality, and support for the LGBTQIA++ community through designs. “It was my chance to challenge stereotypes and showcase the rich heritage of our country in a modern and inclusive way. I wanted to demonstrate that Indian fashion is not limited to traditional attire but can also embrace contemporary styles and global influences,” he adds.
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Being at the event, Mayyur could advocate for equality and celebrate the community. As a designer, he wanted to utilise the platform to contribute to a larger cause and amplify voices that deserve to be heard. Mayyur tells us, “The energy and excitement at the New York Pride was infectious. I felt a strong sense of unity and celebration. It was a milestone moment for me because it held so much meaning and value.”
The response was overwhelming, he reiterates, which reinforced his belief in the power of fashion to make a statement and create social change. “The entire community was there to support and cheer. It was a pleasure to have an internationally renowned gender non-conforming writer and performance artiste Alok Menon seated in the front row, Canadian YouTuber Kanwer Singh, who is popular by the name Humble the Poet, and my numerous other friends from the industry who showed up in support and solidarity,” he says.
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What’s gender fluid dressing?
Mayyur’s unique design vocabulary is deeply connected with the essence of Indian culture and tradition. But for many Indians, gender-fluid dressing is still a Western concept. Throwing light on the way he drew parallels, Mayyur says that Aikya was born out of his desire to merge the rich heritage of India with a contemporary and inclusive design vocabulary. “I believe in pushing boundaries and challenging preconceived notions. While gender-fluid dressing may be considered as a Western concept by some, I wanted to break those barriers and create a space for it within the context of Indian culture and tradition,” Mayyur shares. He embarked on a journey of exploration and reinterpretation while creating Aikya. He delved deep into the different ways in which Indian history, traditions, and art forms could be transformed into modern and gender-fluid designs. Giving us some more details, he says that the colour palette of Aikya draws inspiration from the vibrant hues seen during Indian festivals and celebrations. Not just this but he also experimented with bold combinations, and unexpected contrasts, and played around with textures to add depth and visual interest to each creation. Ultimately, he says, Aikya represents his personal artistic journey, merging his love for Indian culture and tradition with a modern, inclusive vision. Although India, as a society, has made strides in accepting and championing the cause of gender-fluid dressing, according to Mayyur, there is still work to be done. He says more Indian designers need to run campaigns that spark conversations around breaking gender boundaries, androgyny, and unisex dressing to create awareness, challenge stereotypes, and foster a more inclusive and accepting society.
United in dressing
“The Aikya collection is a reflection of my belief that fashion can be a unifying force that brings people together, regardless of their differences. Each piece in the collection has been meticulously crafted to celebrate the unique beauty of different cultures and styles,” says Mayyur, also telling us that Aikya means unity.
The outfits from this collection showcase intricate embroidery, bold prints and vibrant colours. “My personal encounters and conversations with individuals from the LGBTQIA++ community have deeply influenced and inspired me. Hearing their stories, understanding their journeys, and witnessing their strength and resilience ignited a strong desire within me to create a collection that celebrates their unique identities and experiences,” he says. Aikya showcases several design elements like motifs, prints and other details that reflect diversity. The collection features fluid and genderneutral silhouettes having elements such as asymmetrical cuts, drapes, and layering. These allow individuals to style and interpret the garments in a way that reflects their personal style and identity.
The embroideries and embellishments in the collection are inspired by Indian craftsmanship and tradition. The designer has used intricate thread-work along with traditional resham and hand ari embroidery, sequins, and beadwork to create visual impact and enhance the overall aesthetic.
Of empowerment and self expression
Clothing goes beyond the utilitarian purpose and plays a significant role in selfexpression. Through this collection, the designer intends to empower individuals from the LGBTQIA++ community to express their unique identities and embrace their personal style with confidence. “I firmly believe that clothing is a powerful tool for self-expression.
My new collection aims to provide a platform where individuals can celebrate their individuality, regardless of their gender identity or sexual orientation,” he adds. In fact, the models who donned the collection identify themselves as a part of the LGBTQIA++ community. Mayyur says that his entire crew, right from the PR agency to the makeup artist, stylist and photographer, belong to the community. “It was important for me to be inclusive and have a unanimous group of individuals. Not to forget that people from the LGBTQIA++ community are highly talented and have so much to offer,” Mayyur affirms.
The collection has the potential to influence queer politics by promoting visibility, representation, empowerment, self expression, and challenging gender norms. Mayyur says, “By utilising fashion as a medium, the collection engages with a wider audience and creates spaces for discussions, helping to shape public perception and attitudes towards queer politics. Fashion is a powerful form of self expression, and when individuals from the LGBTQIA++ community can find clothing that aligns with their authentic selves, it builds a sense of empowerment and confidence.”
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