India, being a one-stop destination for all things art, boasts an abundance of diverse crafts and textiles. Skilled artisans, spread across various regions, dedicate themselves to refining clothing through intricate handcrafted designs. Moreover, it’s simply delightful to see Indians, be it for weddings, festivities or other auspicious occasions, turn to traditional roots, fabrics, and intricate designs, despite the ongoing evolution in the fashion world. Among these treasures lies the enchanting world of patola, celebrated for its cultural significance and unparalleled artistry. A handwoven silk textile renowned for its intricate, double ikat dyeing technique, patola finds its origin in Gujarat. Fashion designer Shantanu Goenka, known for his classic and opulent Indian designs, has introduced a new collection Patan which is all things patola.
Renowned for his exceptional craftsmanship and opulent design details, Shantanu elegantly merges traditional handcrafting methods with contemporary aesthetics. His collections stand out with intricate embroidery, rich fabrics, and an unwavering focus on meticulous work. Giving us an overview of Patan, the designer says, “Patola, a revered weave originating from the village of Patan in Gujarat, has inspired the new collection. It intends to revive heritage clothing and embroidery for contemporary women, keeping the craft alive amidst the ever-evolving fashion landscape.”
To comprehend the intricacies of patola, the designer ventured to Patan, the village known as the birthplace of patola weaving. Shantanu shares, “We engaged with several weaver families, notably the Salvi family, revered as one of the oldest patola weavers in the country and recipients of national awards. Our research delved into patola weaving techniques through books and discussions with master weavers to understand the origin and process. Embracing the traditional designs such as Manekchowk and Navratan, we emphasised authentic patterns over modern interpretations.”
Touching upon the involvement of local artisans, the designer tells us, “Employing artisans from Bengal skilled in diverse embroidery crafts, we aimed to harmoniously integrate embroidery with the patola, allowing the weave to take centre stage. So, our approach involved incorporating microscopic motifs from the weave to craft borders and patterns using micromirrors, thread, and tiny pearls, preserving the Kutch and Bhuj aesthetics.”
Patan encompasses an array of ensembles, from saris with mirrored cholis to lehengas, kurta sets, anarkalis, and more. The collection offers a blend of both traditional and Western designs. These outfits are ideal for wedding ceremonies, pre-wedding functions, festivals, and other special occasions. Meanwhile, jackets and shirts cater to events such as cocktail parties. The edit is quite versatile and can be paired with either traditional blouses or modern pieces like shirts and tops for a fun and edgy look. Talking about the fabrics, Shantanu says, “For patolas, the tie and dye work takes place on the yarn itself before they are woven to obtain these magnificent patterns. Both chemical and natural dyed yarns have been used to create a more vibrant or earthy effect on the weaves.”
As far as Patan is considered, a vibrant palette was selected, incorporating shades like turmeric yellow, lapis blue, fiery red, flaming orange, bright green, soothing lavender, serene white, and candy pink, offering a rich and diverse spectrum of colours. According to the designer, women adorned in Patan will exude a sense of pride and connection to their Indian heritage, confidently displaying their culture and tradition.
Price on request. Available online.
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