Hastkala, a word as beautiful as the artistry it signifies, encapsulates the quintessence of craftsmanship. It means a work of art which is a meticulous labour of love and skillfully executed by deft hand movements. For Hyderabadi designer Mrunalini Rao, known for her exquisite occasion wear edits, Hastkala or handcrafted embroidery, is not just a skill; “it’s a profound connection to our heritage and a testament to the timeless artistry of human hands.”
Believing in the same, the city-based designer brings her latest collection Hastkala. It features 11 exquisite occasion-wear ensembles that pay a heartfelt tribute to the exceptional talents of the country’s craftsmen and their extraordinary artistry. The collection’s pieces are crafted from luxurious canvases of various kinds of silks like raw silk, matka and organza. Each piece bears the old-world charm of a bygone era, lend by a symphony of timeless embroideries that have been passed down from one generation to another.
Mrunalini tells us, “In a world that’s constantly evolving, we strive to transport the wearer to an era where craftsmanship was revered and every piece of clothing was a work of art. Our designs pay homage to the bygone eras when attention to detail and quality were paramount, resulting in garments that exude a sense of nostalgia and elegance.” The edit boasts a wide range of lehengas, anarkali kurtas, kaftan dresses, embroidered jackets, saris and fusion wear like the pant-suit lehenga. While the ensembles are traditional, they reflect a contemporary appeal too as the designer has experimented with new age styles like deep V-neck patterns, leg ‘O’ mutton sleeves and butterfly wings that make the pieces time relevant.
Mrunalini advocates this fusion of old meets new style, sharing, “With Hastkala, we embarked on a creative journey to reimagine traditional Indian styles through a contemporary lens. Picture this; a lehenga paired not with the conventional choli but with a flowing cape that adds a touch of ethereal grace. An embroidered skirt elegantly complements a kaftan-style embroidered shirt, fusing two diverse yet harmonious elements into a single ensemble. There’s the jacket with 3D layers and delicate feathers, adorned with intricate hand-embroidered floral motifs which are a testament to the fusion of traditional and avant-garde styles, paired effortlessly with pants. The collection also features a kaftan, reimagined with a one-shoulder design, adorned with zardozi patchwork and captivating mandala art. We took risks and experimented with styles like crafting a skirt with a cape and a sari paired with a waistcoat. These pieces are a reflection of our commitment to blending Western silhouettes with the time-honoured craftsmanship of India.”
The pieces conjure a fantasy with an exuberant colour palette of red, black, rama green, magenta, royal blue, hot pink, and orange. The pallete highlights intricate and opulent embroidery work that lies at the core of Hastkala, about which Mrunalini shares, “We understand that colours have the power to evoke emotions, memories and a sense of wonder. Hence, our palette is carefully curated to be not just visually appealing but emotionally resonant. Each shade is selected to complement the hand embroideries of resham, badla, pearl, and zardozi to enhance their beauty.”
Mrunalini is amongst a few designers from the city whose values are firmly rooted in avoiding repetition. Thus, over the years, she has ventured into a diverse array of design elements, from bringing vibrant floral prints, intricate patchwork and traditional tie-dye techniques to Rajasthani aesthetics. “For me, reinventing and improvising are ongoing learning processes. I aim to push the boundaries of design placement and silhouettes while remaining rooted in our craft. Our creations are tailoured for those who seek the unconventional, those who crave experimentation over monotonous fashion,” she tells us, adding, “We stand firmly against the fast fashion tide, opting instead for timeless silhouettes that celebrate the essence of Indian fashion.”
This zest to experiment has also made her one of the most sought after and celebrity-approved designers with creations spotted on divas like Kiara Advani, Vidya Balan, Genelia Deshmukh, Kajol, Neha Dhupia, Neena Gupta, Ramya Krishnan and others. Price on request. In store, Jubilee Hills. Also available online.
Mail: priyamvada@newindianexpress.com
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