There was nary a sandworm in sight Thursday night on the runway of Christian Siriano, but he definitely had Dune on his mind as he kicked off New York Fashion Week. The glam squad of the sand had places to go and people to see in their earth tones and orange shimmer worthy of a Sahara sunset. The movie, and now a second coming up, was his jumping-off point.
“I was like, what if we lived in this world that was kind of apocalyptic, but in the sand in the desert. But where’s the glamour? Where’s the eveningwear? What would they wear if people had to live in this culture on a planet?”
Well, velvet with lace in body-hugging gowns, for one, and lots of metallic copper tones, orange-hued tulle and ochre sparkle. Perhaps they'd leave Siriano's oversized peplums and his spare enlarged shoulders at home.
Under the sparkling chandeliers at The Plaza, Siriano rolled out 60 looks for dinner and cocktail dressing, galas and other social-circuit affairs, mixing bare-chested men in jackets with dazzling displays of earth colours, including gentler creams in slinky gowns and tuxedo silhouettes for women in black.
The designer often thinks of other worlds, with a caveat: “Don't forget the beauty.” He's a particular fan of the Sandy franchise starring Zendaya, who he's dressed lots of times, and Timothée Chalamet, who he'd love to dress but hasn't so far. “I actually didn’t know that the new movie was coming out right now, so great timing. Maybe there will be something for him in this show,” he said of Chalamet with a giggle.
Gone, save for one black look, were Siriano's huge signature ballgowns. He showed many mini looks, including some in gold shine with pops of red, the latter a colour that's having a moment. He put Alicia Silverstone in red on his front row. She was joined by Succession star J. Smith-Cameron, Ashlee Simpson, Sophia Bush and Melanie Lynskey, all not in red. That did what red does: It popped.
“Red brings that nostalgia that we love, of great moments,” Siriano said. “I think girls love to feel sexy, powerful. That's it!"