Step into Gabriela Hearst's Fall/Winter 2024 show, and you’re not just entering a fashion presentation; you're stepping into a Surrealist dreamscape. Once inside the Brooklyn venue, you see, ‘butterfish’ sculpted from radishes and Oaxacan cheese ribbons, a playful prelude to the collection inspired by artist Leonora Carrington.
Carrington's whimsical touch was evident, particularly her portrait of Max Ernst in a feathery merman garb. This translated into Hearst’s menswear last month and now echoed in the women’s line with luscious textures taking centre stage. Think mixed shearling and cashmere coats, woolly cashmere furs in bold reds, and teddy-like V-neck gowns that were pure comfort royalty.
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Hearst’s new ‘Carrington’ bag, a sleek box in shades like oxblood, further underscored the season’s obsession with all things red. Velvet boots and metallic flats solidified this fiery trend, proving red isn’t going anywhere soon.
Leather ruled the runways this season, but Hearst’s take was anything but ordinary. Napa coats were hand-pleated for added depth, while supple suede slip dresses rivalled silk in their fluidity. Comfort never takes a backseat, though. Merino knit waists graced double satin slip dresses, and signature swirl lace adorned cashmere shirts and flared pants – “Good luck trying to do this,” Hearst was quoted as saying, highlighting the intricate craftsmanship.
Material marriages were another standout feature. A chic black cashmere knit and ivory shearling coat with a corset back stole the show, while a gold metallic napa dress embraced the art of ‘organic engineering’ with its bias-cut silk fusion.
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From the playful feast to the textured masterpieces, Gabriela Hearst's Fall/Winter 2024 was a testament to her unique blend of whimsy, comfort, and exquisite craftsmanship. It's a collection that reminds us that fashion can be both beautiful and thought-provoking, a welcome escape from the ordinary.