INTERVIEW | JJ Valaya blends classic with contemporary at India Couture Week collection BARODA

Couturier brings the royal heritage of Gujarat with modern allure 
From JJ Valaya's BARODA
From JJ Valaya's BARODA

As the stardust of India Couture Week 2023 settles gracefully on the runway, the resplendent creations from J J Valaya’s Fall Winter 2023 couture collection, BARODA, continue to linger in our minds, leaving an indelible mark of grandeur. Majestic and awe-inspiring, this collection effortlessly brought the royal heritage of Gujarat into the realm of contemporary allure, making it an unforgettable sight. JJ Valaya, the “royal nomad”, skillfully weaved together craft, traditions, history and culture in three enchanting chapters that resonated with the present while honoring the past.

Ensembles from Baroda
Ensembles from Baroda

The first chapter, Art Deco, exuded a mesmerising fusion of Lipan craft, art deco lines and Mughal inlay motifs, creating an intriguing and unique style that captivate the senses. In the second chapter, Nomade, modernised Kutch motifs and captivating mirror work took center stage paying homage to the rich cultural heritage of Gujarat. The third chapter, Royale, showcased the splendour of the age-old Mashru fabric adorned with patterns inspired by Portuguese Azulejos tiles, often found in majestic churches and palaces. Within this breathtaking collection, the most exquisite silks burst forth, exuding an aura of regality and grace, adorning resplendent Indian attire such as embellished lehengas, elegant kurta sets, ethereal sheer saris, and majestic sherwanis paired with churidars.

Royal ode to Gujarat
Royal ode to Gujarat

Each ensemble is meticulously crafted in style, adorned with signature accessories like ornate belts, opulent open jackets, sumptuous shawls, regal headgear, and exquisite jewellery, elevating them to the realm of true artistic masterpieces. We catch up with the designer who tells us how the edit was a cultural exploration, “The making process took 8-10 months and involved intense research, not as a historian but as a cultural explorer digging into the past to find unseen visual treasures. This was followed by creating mood boards, first sketches, Khakhas (framework), prints and embroideries and any special textiles and finally the process of experimentation and prototyping to define the look of the season. We are a legacy brand and we believe in creating timeless treasures in the finest quality… this has held us in good shape and we’re still evolving.”

Regal bridal wear
Regal bridal wear

A sense of classicism and contemporary is embedded in the new edit that shows the epitome of Indian couture. Valaya elaborates on the same, “In this collection, inspired interpretations of age-old crafts such as Lipan, Kutch mirror work and Mashru fabric showcase deep-rooted cultural influences. At the same time, our fusion of traditional crafts with modern elements reflects the innovation and creativity that sets Indian couture apart, celebrating the country’s diverse history and cultural tapestry through exquisite and elegant style statements.”

Menswear from Baroda
Menswear from Baroda

Telling us what distinguishes Indian couture from Western couture sensibilities, he shares, “Indian couture is distinguished from Western couture sensibilities by its emphasis on traditional craftsmanship, colours and silhouettes which are unique to India. Unlike Western couture which often focuses on minimalism and clean lines, Indian couture embraces intricate embroideries, handwoven fabrics, and vibrant colours.”

Price on request. Soon available online and in stores. 
Mail: priyamvada@ newindianexpress.com
Twitter: @RanaPriyamvada

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