Gems Bond: A look at latest pieces by Shiv Narayan Jewellers in Hyderabad

A legacy brand in Hyderabad, Shiv Narayan Jewellers, creates a set of masterpieces that are so rare and expensive that it doesn’t want to part with them
From TNIE
From TNIE

When the jeweller to the Nizams has something to show, you had better keep your eyes open. Which is what happened when Bollywood glamgirl, Disha Patani walked down the ramp recently at Taj Falaknuma Palace in Hyderabad. All eyes were on her, sure, but more so on the neckpiece she had on: a magnificent Satlada necklace of seven shimmering layers of emeralds and diamonds. Crafted by Shiv Narayan Jewellers, it is one of the four pieces that have won the brand a total of eight Guinness World Records titles this year, making them the only Indian jeweller to achieve the feat.

The Satlada necklace, which traces its century-old origins to the Nizam of Hyderabad, features as many as 315 emeralds and 1,971 diamonds. Little wonder then that it has claimed the Guinness World Records titles for having the most number of emeralds and the most number of diamonds set on a necklace. Among other record-winning pieces unveiled at the event was also the Ganesh Pendant, which was recognised as the heaviest pendant, weighing 1,011.15 gm.

It also got the title for the most diamonds set on a pendant, boasting a count of 11,472 pieces of the stone. Later though, the jewellers surpassed their own record with Ram Darbar, an even heavier pendant weighing 1,681.82 gm, and featuring 54,666 diamonds, thereby, adding the title of the heaviest diamond pendant to the brand’s kitty as well. This has diamonds inscribed with Sri Ram even on the reverse side.

“A team of over 15 people worked round the clock for over three years,” says the brand’s managing director, Tushar Agarwal, adding that while each piece took six to eight months to be made, sourcing of the rare gemstones alone took over two-and-a-half years. The diamonds used are of VS (Very Slightly Included) and SI (Slightly Included) clarity, all sourced within India. VS diamonds are of the highest quality, as they have very few inclusions or blemishes and are usually only visible under 10x magnification. SI diamonds have slightly more inclusions or blemishes but are still considered to be of superior quality. If the stones are so superior and their number so many, the pieces must cost Nizam’s ransom, right? Not for sale, Pat comes the reply.

“These are one-of-a-kind works of art brought to life by the jeweller’s passion and innovative spirit. And so close to our hearts that we’re not looking to sell them immediately,” Agarwal says, adding, “For the next few years, we plan to display them in national and international exhibitions, so everyone has a chance to see them.” The idea, he adds, is to showcase the brand’s dedication to crafting jewellery that embodies luxury accessible only to a discerning few. While the jewellery pieces are not for sale, a record-breaking ornate diamond and emerald-encrusted magnifying glass is.

The quality of its gems has been certified by the New York-based diamond identification and grading services, SGL Labs, and the cost has been evaluated at $108,346 (`88.88 lakhs approximately). It is documented in Guinness World Records as ‘the most expensive magnifying glass’.

Eight record titles is no small feat. But then, this is no ordinary jewellery maker either. The firm traces its roots back to 1923 with the association of its founder, Seth Shiv Narayan, with the last Nizam of Hyderabad, Mir Osman Ali Khan. For over 25 years, Narayan served as his head jeweller, leading a team that crafted regal emerald ornaments through the 1930s and 40s. The timeless bejewelled treasures that the Nizam—once the richest man in the world—had in his vaults are known to all. With these new treasures, the current generation of Agarwals is merely carrying on that tradition.

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