Indulge explores Udaipur as a lover's paradise

On a chilly December night, beneath clouds playing peekaboo with the silvery moonlight, we immersed ourselves in a rooftop candlelit dinner in Udaipur. Even the biting cold of 12-degrees couldn’t distract us as Rajasthani musicians serenaded us with soulful live music against the regal backdrop of City of Lakes. In a jiffy, the clinking of our glassware and cutlery melded seamlessly with santoor melodies and tabla beats. “Now, I’d play the famous beats from Main Hoon Naa and Hum Aapke Hain Kaun,” announced Salman, our santoor maestro from a musical lineage. His notes were almost perfectly synced with flashes of lightning and thunder, almost prophetically declaring this dinner amid the Aravallis as the most romantic repast of our lives.

This vivid memory is merely a prelude to our three-day sojourn in Udaipur — one of the most royal, romantic, and scenic destinations in India. It’s a paradise for romantics who’d agree with John Keats that ‘a thing of beauty is a joy foreover’, after a tour of the city.

Penchant for royalty
Winter, spanning from November to February, is the best time to visit Udaipur. The weather is warm in the daytime while the nights are chilly. However, at Maharana Pratap International Airport, we were welcomed with an unexpected chill in the air, making us long for a cosy stay. Moments later, we embarked on a 45-minute journey to reach our destination, Sterling Jaisinghgarh Udaipur, a heritage haveli transformed into a resort, nestled in the heart of the city. The drive treated us to captivating vistas of the ancient Aravalli mountain range, its low hills and ridges lending a timeless rusticity to the city. Sterling Jaisingarh Udaipur, strategically located just 2 km from iconic landmarks like Lake Pichola, Fatehsagar, City Palace, Hathi Pol, and Gangaur Ghat, unfolded before us as a charming boutique retreat.

The 24-room heritage property ensconced in a serene lane adorned with fragrant Frangipani trees, boasted a refreshing swimming pool at its front. Our welcome, marked by marigold garlands, refreshing mocktails, and rhythmic drum beats, set the tone for a luxury experience. Soon, we checked into our Privilege Suite, a 550 sq ft haven, offering sweeping views of the lawns and the pool and equipped with a king size bed, side tables, study table, sofa set, and spacious bathroom. Adorned with Rajasthani miniature and Gokhru art, the suite exuded grandeur in every corner. Moreover, the jharokha-style windows, with a diwan and pastel curtains, instantly became our favourite spot, whisking us into a stately nostalgia.

After resting briefly, we began our heritage trail with the renowned City Palace. We were spellbound by this marvel built by Maharana Udai Singh II, whose vision laid the foundation stone for Rajasthan’s largest palace, sprawling over 5 acres and expanded upon by 22 successive Maharanas. Its 11 palace-like complexes unfolded the regalia of Rajasthan. We saw breathtaking artistry of mirror work, ornamental tile work, inlay work, crystal and porcelain figurines, miniature paintings, glass mosaics of peacocks, hanging gardens with fountains, and steep narrow staircases that lead you from one chamber to chamber. In olden times, they ensured the enemy found it tough to enter the premises. If you don’t mind splurging, do check out the fine dines and crafts shops in the palace. But we suggest street side bazaars such as Hathi Pol, Shilpgram and Jagdish Temple Road to get vibrant collectibles — shawls, Maharani saris, postcards, leather accessories, footwear, clay handicrafts and more.

Upon returning to Sterling Jaisinghgarh Udaipur, we craved a Rajasthani feast. We reached the rooftop alfresco restaurant, Upper Deck, and settled under a cupola to enjoy panoramic views of the city. Our fare was accompanied by tabla and flute melodies that lent a background score for a culinary parade commenced with Tomato Dhania Shorba, followed by tantalising starters like Chicken Tandoori and Sarson ke Phool. The main course delved into Rajasthani staples like Govind Gatta Curry and Laal Maans, served with an assortment of Indian breads that ended our day on a ritzy note.

Venice of the East
On the second day, we awoke to a light drizzle that later paved the way for clear skies. Following a satisfying English breakfast, we embarked on an adventurous boat ride on Pichola Lake. Its tranquil waters mirrored the clear blue sky, reflecting the pale yellow granite walls of the City Palace on its banks. In the centre, the 17th-century Lake Garden Palace, Jagmandir, once a summer retreat for the Rajputana aristocracy, now serves as a venue for hosting ceremonial occasions. You can also visit the Monsoon Palace aka Sajjangarh that offers gorgeous views of the city from the hilltop.

However, our hunger strikes got us back to the property for an elaborate lunch at Mewari, the royal dinein dotted with plush cushioned seating near jharokhas. The restaurant served us almost everything under the sun — from traditional street style flavours of Aaloo Chana Chaat, Chinese flavours of Chicken Noodles Soup, and Mexico’s Chicken Cesare Salad to North Indian delicacies like Paneer Lababdaar and Bhutta Palak served with Garlic Naans and chapattis. The cherry on the top was the Apple Pie which is one of the best we’ve ever tasted that almost sung Christmas carols in our ears!

If you don’t like stepping out after a meal, the property’s indoor experiences like Badminton, Carrom Board and Chess as well as a vintage library are sure to keep you busy for the day! By evening, Udaipur transcends to heaven on earth! People can debate whether or not it’s the Venice Of the East, but our experience at Pichola Lake and Gangaur Ghat by night ended the debate! The picturesque lake mirrored a jazzy dance of lights. Tunes from tanpura played by local musicians on the ghats, made sure we were whisked into the cinematic scenes from Yeh Jawaani Hai Deewani, Ram Leela and Dhadak, shot near the enchanting lakeside.

As we woke from this cinematic dream, it was time for a cultural extravaganza. We headed for two back-to-back, housefull shows of Lok Dharohar — a daily Rajasthani folk dance and music show. The audience was blown away by Chari dance, where women balanced flaming pots on their heads while dancing to pulsating beats. Next was the peacock dance where vibrant lehenga-clad dancers stole the show, narrating the eternal love story of Radha and Krishna. The Terah Taal dance celebrated the artistry of the Kamada tribe of Rajasthan, known as the community of snake charmers. The evening left a lasting imprint on our mind, as we also got clicked with the hardworking artistes who travel daily for the show from as far as 40 kilometres!

Destined for weddings!
On day 3, we arrived at Sterling Balicha Udaipur, a serene property nestled away from the city’s hustle. Housing a sprawling 40,000 sq ft manicured lawn, it stands as a destination wedding venue with white cupolas, pavilions and hallways. Its indoor banquet hall exudes elegance with its majestic chandeliers and Thikri art, showcasing meticulous glass and stone inlay work, a testament to Rajasthan’s rich cultural heritage.

After a mini tour of the place, we checked into our Classic Room stuffed with modern amenities for a comforting stay. As soon as we learnt that the property organises a puppet show every evening, we were in for drama! Soon the artiste arrived with a battalion of puppets, showcasing the animated dolls mimicking the ways of kings and queens, snake charmers, horse riders and dancing women. Their animated performance sprung us from our seats to try our hands at puppetry, only to find it’s too difficult to pull off this tightrope act of deft hand movements and strings!

As the finale of our trip approached, a typical Rajasthani fare awaited on the rooftop beside an azure pool bathed in the moonshine. We perched beside the warm glow of well-lit pavilions. On the tune of santoor came a decorative Rajasthani Thali with mini brass bowls containing Mutton Saagwala, Lasuni Khada Palak, Rabodi Lila Kanda, Methi Malai Matar Makhana, Pitod ki Sabzi, Dal Makhani and Barista Pulao that satiated our cravings for spicy, crispy, creamy to even tangy flavours. Spoonfuls of Anjir Akhroth Halwa and a bite of Rabdi Malpua ended our three-day journey on blissful indulgence, taking away delightful memories.

Sterling Balicha Udaipur is 28 km and Jaisinghgarh is 25 km away respectively, from Maharana Pratap International Airport.
Mail: priyamvada@newindianexpress.com
Twitter: @RanaPriyamvada