Visit this verdant backwater getaway that promises you a holiday defined by ‘languorous luxury’

Think Kerala and the first image that comes to your mind is elegant coconut palm trees, the locals dressed in simple but stylish cream and gold kasavu mundus, delicious vegetarian and non-vegetarian food, verdant hill stations, pristine beaches and of course, the languorous backwaters, lagoons and inland waterways that indeed define the region. Someone recently pointed out to us, much to our chagrin, that Kerala was the Rajasthan of the South and while we do agree, it is the overwhelming presence of water that makes the difference. Touché ?

Regional pride aside, we were recently in Kerala’s lesser-discovered Kollam district to check out The Leela Ashtamudi – A Raviz Hotel, a hidden gem of a property tucked away amid the Ashtamudi backwaters in Mathilil. Now, the property isn’t necessarily a new one. Often touted as the only five-star hotel in the upper-Kollam region — the property is a jewel among the Raviz Group of Hotels & Resorts that is spread across Kerala. The Leela Group recently took over the property and have since elevated the experience to match their standards that have come to be known as a golden standard, the world over.

But let’s get to the point. The stay at a property like The Leela Ashtamudi is planned to be extra special. While the property is very much accessible by road, they insist on bringing you to the hotel via a short houseboat ride from across the shore in Kureepuzha. You are greeted at the Padmavilasom Palace (which is also being developed by the property) and the short boatride is accompanied by a traditional welcome, coconut water and cold wet towels galore — just what you need for the unforgiving Kerala heat. As you approach the property (and oh-what-a-sight it is to behold) you feel like a local thamburatti (princess) bride approaching her new home, entourage intact — and no Disney fantasy could ever match this experience.

The approach to the property via the jetty is also very interesting as the façade of the hotel suddenly chances upon you and you are immediately overwhelmed by the grandeur of the whole construction. Landscaped to the point of it being a fault, the property, however, does nestle quite non-jarringly with its environs. What strikes you first as you walk up the flight of stairs taking you into the reception, is that this was built to impress. From chandeliers that don’t need to beg for your attention to indigenous fishing boats repurposed to show-off local spices, bang in the middle of the welcome area — the thought that has gone into this place, builds a beautiful narrative that screams just one thing — well-rooted luxury.

We stayed at a Grand Heritage Lake View room and what blew our minds were the small yet cozy balconies that opened up into mind-blowing views of the backwaters. Light drizzles that night only gave us a teaser of how spectacular the monsoons might be from this vantage. Needless to say, the Leela brand of hospitality rings true throughout the experience and the food is a wonderful blend of local favourites and cuisines from all around the world. We were also lucky to have a beautifully curated dinner at Raanthal — a floating house-boat restaurant that is a lantern-lit dining experience unlike any other and we suggest you try the Fish Nirvana (and don’t forget to ask them for the story behind the name of the delicacy). Opt for an ayurvedic massage, as the property has some of the best therapists in the region and we will not be surprised if you also down copious amounts of the amla-based refresher available at the spa, just like we did.

What really worked for us, however, was our long sessions of lazing around the property, broken only by the incurable and unavoidable need to feed ourselves. The property has many nooks and corners designed simply for this — lazing as you stare pointlessly at the languid picturesque backwaters — and we hope you take the effort to find them all. For those of you who prefer keeping yourselves occupied instead, there’s a gym, the aforementioned spa, a beautiful swimming pool and loads of other activities including speedboat rides. You could also check into their traditional cottages (relocated and rebuilt in their original form) — Eerattupetta and Anchal — for an even more ‘rooted’ experience. Don’t forget to also check out Munroe Island, Varkala Beach and Jatayu Earth Centre — all within an hour away from the property, in case you need to venture out.

INR 8,000 onwards. Connected by road from Kochi and Thiruvananthapuram. Nearest rail head: Kollam.

Email: romal@newindianexpress.com
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