Designer Payal Khandwala’s newest release reimagines the eponymous label’s signature textile, handwoven silk, with versatility, turning each piece into a seasonless option. Beyond the collection’s apparent colour-blocked compositions, there’s an understated yet precise geometric detailing woven by hand. The shapes in these garments—circles, squares, and chevrons—come together in subtle plays of symmetry, while a carefully considered palette adds to the depth. Payal takes us through the collection.
What’s the idea behind the collection?
The cornerstone of this release was an exploration of brocade as a craft, but to see it in a context devoid of the gold and silver metric threads that we typically associate with it. The idea was to create the details with subtle shifts of colour in woven silk yarn instead. This is the first time we’ve explored this version of handwoven brocade, which makes it quite different from our previous collections, especially in terms of the textures and details that we’ve created.
How does sustainability come into play in your collections?
We primarily work with handwoven textiles, and sustainability has to be holistic. It’s not just about the environment; economic sustainability is equally important, especially for our weaver clusters, with whom we work year-long.
What inspires you as a designer?
I’m inspired by a lot of things, big and small, from architecture to a carpet, from music to art, it’s a spectrum of elements that catch my eye. Nature, shapes, geometry, origami, our deep reverence for colour as a culture, and my love for many things Japanese.
What are the summer occasion party wardrobe must-haves?
Layers are important as temperatures change and we move between spaces that are air-conditioned and outdoors. Lightweight silks are a great option; silk regulates body temperatures well, and when it’s handwoven, it’s even more special. Think oversized silk shirts and trousers, roomy silk jumpsuit, a light silk jacket, kaftans and maxis.
What are your fashion choices?
I’m preoccupied with personal style more than I am with fashion. All my choices are an extension of my personality, I like beautiful, elegant things that are easy to wear, pack and live in. I prefer them just slightly left of centre, I care about craft, but in a context that feels more modern. And for me, timelessness is non-negotiable.
What are the other collections that you are working on?
I am working on a small printed story with pleating for the summer, and textile developments for fall and winter.