The recently concluded second season of Lakme Fashion Week x FDCI in Delhi has impressed us for more than one reason. At the heart of its success are designers, both famous and emerging, who made the event worthwhile. With a few exceptions, each designer brought their distinct ideas to life on the ramp. The outfits, styling, ambience, lights, music and sets came together to create moments that stayed with us long after we left the venue. These shows made us think, argue, comment, critique and disagree with each other's views, which is perhaps the biggest marker of any event's success.
The overriding theme aligned with the spirit of the young and fearless, who are assertive about what they wear. Comfort and wearability superseded all other aspects of fashion, irrespective of labels. The message was loud and clear: today's generation believes in wearing something that is not only comfortable but also aligns with their thoughts and way of life. Their clothes go beyond just being stylish and become messengers of what they stand for.
The Week started with a much-anticipated opening show by Pero in association with Lakme x Tira. This time, Pero reinterpreted Barbie and her world in its one distinctive style, perfectly capturing freedom of movement and ease with silhouettes in natural fabrics and textures.
The NIF Global GenNext winners also presented exceptionally strong shows under Sabina Chopra's able guidance, highlighting the diverse ways emerging designers engage with craft traditions while developing their own distinct visual identities.
We loved what Abhishek Chauhan, Nimisha Diwakar of Subbah Studio and Shreya Parasrampuria and Sharan Adka of Day and Age showcased. We especially loved the imaginative way Nimisha captured the vivid colours of Kolkata's famed Mallickghat flower market through Bengal's age-old technique of hand-painted Batik in handwoven Noil, Hand Matka Silk, Murshidabad silk and Khadi. The Hustle and Hue collection appealed to us for its youthful modern silhouettes that incorporate traditional heritage crafts without loud proclamations. Abhishek also had us thinking with his edgy collection, Alchemy, which celebrates transformations in human life with designs rooted in sculptural forms, precise construction and unconventional material exploration. Abhishek's collection celebrates the imperfection and beauty in things often considered unconventional.
Day and Age's Neither This Nor That had us overjoyed for simply putting together a collection that celebrates gender fluidity without being unnecessarily dramatic or loud. The attractive silhouettes in vintage kantha quilts replete with appliqué, beadwork and embroidery beautifully melded craftsmanship and contemporary expression while celebrating ambiguity, plurality and individuality all at the same time.
Talking about the three shows that FDCI put up with Russian designer Sergey Sysoev, Italian labels Unbreakit, Leo Dean and Avant Toi, and Ladakhi designers, FDCI chairman Sunil Sethi says, "The idea was to make an impact with an interesting spectrum of designers. The Italians designers showcased collections built using indigenous prints and hand-painted cashmere. The Russians too showed their mastery over crushing, folk art, and beautifully mixing clashing patterns. The Ladakhi designers showed us Ladakh is more than just pashmina by showcasing the region's culture, legacy and tradition that must be kept alive".
We also loved how Suneet Verma brought together traditional craftsmanship and contemporary design language in the Kashi collection by his bridge-to-luxury label SV by Suneet Verma. The stylish pieces effortlessly integrated Indian craft, turning it into chic, wearable options for the young fashion brigade.
Designers Pratima Pandey, Rahul Singh and Sajukta Dutta held their ground with brilliant displays of unique design elements, turning them into visual treats.
Til by Ankur Verma celebrated ageing beautifully by opening the show with 85-year-old model Isla Van Damme. He carried this through his creations using textile waste as a central design material, giving discarded fabrics new life through intricate craftsmanship.
Siddharth Bansal, known for his fabulous use of bright, pigmented colours, threw in a pleasant surprise by playing with toned-down versions of vivid shades in smart outfits that carry a message of unity in diversity through an amalgamation of intricate hand embroidery, sculptural silhouettes, and rich textiles.
"We plan to take Indian fashion further globally. This would manifest through an international guest programme spanning top buyers, tastemakers and media. We feel Indian design is having a moment and we want to create an ecosystem that supports its growth in international markets," says Jaspreet Chandok, group VP, Reliance Brands.
The closing act was perhaps one of the most brilliant shows we have seen recently on Indian ramps. Just when we thought we might predict what Amit Aggarwal would showcase for his pret collection from AM.IT, he stumped us with innovation not only in terms of the showcase but also the collection itself.
His pret edit, On a Day Like Today, had us gaping at how intelligently he explored the shift from the structure of a working day to relaxed after-hours silhouettes while incorporating familiar Indian crafts, objects and gestures into design details.
The Heart Shows, conceived to bring sustainability to the heart of the fashion conversation, featured about 13 famed and emerging designers, including Amit Aggarwal, Siddhartha Bansal, Ashish N Soni, Anurag Gupta, TIL, Pero, Farak, among others.
"At LFW x FDCI's New Delhi edition, the Heart Shows put the spotlight on designers and ideas that look at fashion through a more conscious lens, be it materials, processes, craftsmanship or new creative approaches. The intention is to show how fashion and sustainability can coexist seamlessly," says Ashwini Rao, VP, Hindustan Unilever.
What we loved about Lakme Fashion Week this time was that the collections were attractive and relatable and the event didn't turn into a wedding gala with bling lehengas dominating the ramp. It was fresh, fun and wonderfully curated and it has set the bar high for the next season in March 2027 in Mumbai. We will surely be keeping an eye on the next season.
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