Varun Bahl’s latest Autumn-Winter collection, On the Record, resonates with the idea of finding beauty in what we keep. And such beauty in small things is often discovered in weddings and kept with precious care. Be it a handwritten note, an invitation saved long after the celebration, or a photograph that brings a moment back. Varun’s fall-winter bridal collection stems from this instinct to preserve and explores what happens when a garment becomes a part of the memory.
Flowers are central to his design vocabulary, not simply as decoration, but as a reflection of nature, emotion and the passage of time. In this collection, fresh flowers become preserved ones, and hence we see them in soft tones with flattened petals, yet what they represent remains. The construction draws from the anatomy of a petal. Pleats follow its folds and veins, while drapes are kept loose to imitate the organic fall of a stem. Sheer nets and organzas remind of the translucent nature of a pressed flower, while hand-worked appliqué, beadwork, sequins and metallic threadwork lend dimension to the floral forms.
The colour palette beautifully moves between the shades of fresh and dry flowers. Ivory, parchment, champagne and antique gold form the softer, aged tones of something preserved over time. Blush, apricot and dusty rose recall the changing shades of a flower pressed between pages. Deep emerald and bottle green, lacquer red, vermilion and ruby exude the vivid shades of fresh blooms. Sage and pistachio sit between them, while black appears sparingly as a dramatic ground for gold, red and ivory embroidery.
The collection stands for everything that a modern bridal wardrobe comprises. Flowing anarkalis, embroidered bodices, expansive skirts, pre-draped saris, embroidered red-net saris, sharara sets, peplum halters, embroidered kurtas with waistcoat-style borders, cape sets and fluid kaftans are all there to choose from. We loved their floral brocade jacket-lehenga silhouettes for their structure.
The short-dress edit offers a sequinned red mini with an open back, a black mini with three-dimensional floral appliqué, a tiered ruffle skirt paired with a heavily embroidered jacket, and a champagne-gold, long-sleeved dress layered with florals. Designed for cocktails, receptions, after-parties and second looks, these pieces reflect a bride whose wardrobe moves with the celebrations around her.
“I wanted the silhouettes to feel effortless, but I still wanted them to have that sense of drama that makes you stop and look twice. They’re elegant and fluid, with the maximalism coming through in the embroidery, the florals and all the detailing. I like that contrast between something that feels easy to wear and something that still has a strong presence. The clothes should move with you, but they should never feel ordinary,” says Varun Bahl, as he takes us through the beautiful edit.
What was the exact moment or memory that sparked this concept?
After a celebration, there’s always a bunch of flowers left drying somewhere, upside down on a hook or tucked into a book. I’ve always watched that transformation: the colours soften, the petals flatten, but what they represent stays. I wanted to design clothes that do the same, that carry the fleeting beauty of a celebration into something meant to be kept.
How have you evolved your signature florals in On the Record?
Flowers have always been my starting point, but I’ve never really seen them as decoration. They’re how I talk about nature, emotion, and time. This season, I wanted to look at what happens after the bloom. A fresh flower is beautiful for a day, but a pressed one is beautiful for years. The colour softens, the petals flatten, and it becomes quieter, but it never stops meaning something. So, the florals here aren’t just blooming. They’re about that change and about making something from a celebration that you can hold on to.
Could you share details about the craftsmanship and techniques?
We began by looking closely at a petal, how it folds, where the veins run, and how a stem falls when it isn’t held up. The pleats follow those folds, and the drapes move the way a stem does. The nets and organzas are there for the translucency of a pressed flower, that papery, light-through-it quality. Then the handwork brings the flowers back to life. Appliqué, beadwork, sequins and metallic thread give each flower depth, so it lifts off the fabric instead of sitting flat on it.
How do you see the modern bride’s priorities shifting?
She wants more from her wedding wardrobe than one look. The celebrations have multiplied, so the cocktail, the reception and the after-party all need their own moment. That’s why the short dresses are part of the collection: a sequinned red mini with an open back, a black mini with floral appliqué, and a champagne-gold dress layered with florals. She still loves the traditional pieces, but she also wants something that feels like her, and something that she’ll actually want to wear again.
How do you balance high-octane drama with effortless comfort?
I want a silhouette to feel easy, but I never want it to feel ordinary. The drama shouldn’t come from the clothes being heavy or hard to wear. It comes from the embroidery, the florals, and the detailing. I like that contrast, something that moves with you and still makes people look twice.
What advice would you give brides for pre-wedding dinners or after-parties?
Wear something you can move in. These are the evenings you want to dance, hug people, and enjoy yourself, so choose a silhouette that lets you do that, like a sharara set, a cape set, a peplum halter or a short dress. Keep the shape easy and let the embroidery do the talking. And if you have a second look planned, make it a different mood from the first. It’s a lovely way to show another side of yourself in the same night.
One trend you’re glad to see fade, and one you hope stays forever?
I’m happy to see the idea fade that a bridal outfit has to be heavy and uncomfortable. Brides shouldn’t have to endure their own wedding. What I hope never goes away is real craftsmanship, handwork that takes time and carries the touch of the person who made it. That’s the part that gets passed down.
What are the winter wedding must-haves?
A flowing anarkali in red or cream, with a fitted, embroidered bodice, is the one I’d start with. Then a pre-draped sari in emerald satin or ivory, which gives you drama without the effort of draping. A floral brocade jacket-lehenga is lovely for a more structured occasion, and a cape set or kaftan layer is perfect for evenings when you want something elegant and easy. And keep one short, sparkling dress for the after-party.
Tell us about your upcoming collections.
Nothing to announce just yet. We’ve only just launched On the Record for Autumn/Winter, and that’s where my focus is right now. Behind the scenes, we’re already working on concepts for what comes next, but it’s early days and I’d rather let the ideas settle before I talk about them. Once they take shape, I’ll be happy to share.