Rogan: the 400-year-old textile painting technique that mimics embroidery

Rogan is a style of cloth painting in which thick, glossy paint is drawn onto fabric with a stylus. The word comes from the Persian for ‘oil’, and the process is thought to have been born in Persia (now Iran) before arriving in Kutch, Gujarat, more than 400 years ago. As rogan painted cloth tended to be less expensive than other heavily-embroidered garments but could still produce the illusion of embroidery, it was the wedding garment of choice for women from poorer families.

The practice was passed down through generations of artisans in the Khatri community. The Khatris trace their origin to Iran, and supposedly moved to India almost 400 years ago to in Nirona, a village in the middle of Kutch. Earlier, the process of making paint was kept a closely guarded secrets in the family, and artisans would only teach it to family members.

However, by the late 20th century, cheap machine-made textiles had pushed the craft close to extinction. Many families gave up because the work was slow and the pay low, especially after the 2001 Kutch earthquake which hit the region’s tourist trade hard. Abdulgafur Khatri, widely regarded as the pioneer of Rogan’s revival, left for Mumbai as young man in search of work, but in 1984 he received a letter from his grandfather asking him to return to Nirona to keep the art of Rogan alive – which he did through years of poverty, till recognition gradually followed.

In 2019 Prime Minister Narendra Modi gifted a Rogan painting to then US President Barack Obama, which brought international attention to the craft. Abdulgafur Khatri received a Padma Shri the same year. In 2023, he set a world record in Gandhinagar by creating the longest Rogan piece, 100 metres in length.

The Rogan-painting process

Castor oil is heated over a fire for several hours, sometimes for as long as two days, until it develops a thick, sticky consistency. The resulting substance is cooled in water and mixed with mineral pigments to produce vibrant colours. The preparation is an elaborate process in itself, requiring considerable time and skill before the actual painting can begin.

The artist then places a small amount of the paste on the palm and uses a thin metal stylus to draw out fine strands of colour. Working freehand, the artisan manoeuvres these strands across the fabric to create elaborate floral patterns, geometric shapes, birds and other motifs.

Once one half of a design has been completed, the fabric is carefully folded while the paint is still wet and pressed against the other half. This transfers the pattern, producing a mirrored impression. The remaining details are then added by hand, giving the finished work its characteristic richness and precision.

Traditionally, Rogan-painted fabrics were used to make bridal garments like lehengas and odhnis. Today, the technique is also used to create wall hangings, cushion covers, sarees and other decorative pieces.

The revival has also opened the practice to the general public. Once a closely-kept family secret, the skill is now taught in classes to anyone who wishes to learn. Although traditionally it taught only to the men of the family, since the classes opened in 2010, more than 400 girls have been trained by the Khatri family. It is now one of the livelihoods for women from underprivileged families in that region, who once would have worn it as a poor bride’s substitute for embroidery.

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