What is the Nauvari saree which is linked to Maratha warriors?

Nauvari saree is not just a nine-yard variant of a six-yard saree; it is much more. Unlike other sarees, which are usually worn with a petticoat, this saree is worn in the Kashta style, where it is drawn between the legs to create a trouser-like look. This style allowed more mobility to the women for walking, working, and even riding horses.

Nauvari Saree: From Maratha warrior attire to modern fashion

This name is derived from the Marathi words ‘Nau ’, which means nine and ‘Vari ’, which means yards. This special length allows one to create the dhoti-styled draping of the saree. The saree is first tied on the waist, then drawn between the legs from front to back and tied to the waist again. The excess fabric is gathered in front, while the pallu is thrown on the left shoulder.

It has a lot to do with the Maratha Empire. In the times of Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj, women were also a part of the governance system and even participated in wars during troubled times. According to reports, Rani Tarabai and Jijabai are some of the brave Maratha women who wore this type of attire. The dress was also comfortable to wear on horseback.

The evolution of the Nauvari Saree during the Peshwai era was linked to the participation of Marathi women in social affairs. The design of the attire proved very helpful in riding, working and fighting. As time passed, the Nauvari Saree emerged as a sign of bravery and capability.

Slowly, different variations came into existence. Brahmin women preferred designs where the zari borders could be seen on both sides of the cloth. In Raigad, Aagri women preferred the knee-length design known as adwa patal, which was suitable for field and water activities. The Koli women preferred a two-piece design because of flexibility.

At first, Nauvaris were mostly produced from cotton fabric, which was both soft and durable. Currently, one can find Nauvari sarees made from Paithani silk and satin. The Nauvari saree still holds its ground at weddings and celebrations like Gudi Padwa and Ganesh Chaturthi. The bride can wear the yellow/green silk saree along with the nath and mundavalya. This saree forms a part of the traditional attire of Lavani dancers.

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