The Indian silk that is naturally golden and doesn't need a dye

In the valley regions of Assam, there exists a semi-wild silkworm that produces one of the finest fabrics that exist in India. Muga silk is produced from the Antheraea assamensis silkworm, which is unique to Assam. Its scientific name, 'muga', is derived from the word meaning 'yellowish' in Assamese.

Muga silk carries a royal legacy

It holds a very strong connection with the Ahom dynasty that ruled Assam between 1228 and 1826. It was traditionally used by kings and high-ranking officials as an indicator of their rank. Rajaghoria looms were used especially for the manufacture of beautiful fabrics for use by the king. It has even attracted attention from foreign travellers. A French traveller, Jean-Joseph Tavernier, described the splendid silk in the 17th century in Assam.

The fabric is highly durable and can be passed on as an heirloom for many generations to come. The gold hue of the fabric is known to become more pronounced after every wash. The fabric is also claimed to have natural UV protection abilities. Its exclusivity has made it gain a GI tag.

Production may take up to two months. The semi-wild larvae are placed on host trees by farmers and are protected against predators and climatic changes. Yields are unpredictable since the larvae cannot be domesticated.

After collecting the gold-coloured cocoons, they are boiled in an alkaline solution in order to make them soft. Silk fibres are extracted and spun by hand. For 1,000 cocoons, 125 grams of silk is produced. Since one saree requires about 1,000 grams of silk, 8,000 cocoons would be required.

The process of making a saree from yarn through the traditional Assamese handlooms takes around a week to 10 days. It is mostly done by female weavers in a very careful manner. The designs usually include Japi, Miri Gos, peacock, butterfly, diamond, and Jaapi-Phool motifs. Red and green yarns contrast against the golden saree body.

Muga silk continues to be costly due to its rarity, high-cost production process, susceptibility to climate change, and habitat destruction. The silk is essential to Assamese weddings, ceremonies, and Bihu festivals.

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