Kolkata designer Soumodeep Dutta's earthy, contemporary silhouettes are a runway hit
SOUMODEEP DUTTA’S INVENTIVE tailoring and love for handlooms merge to create silhouettes that are beyond the ordinary. And it is this profound trait of his label’s anatomy that makes him a promising couturier.
Though the 30-year-old designer’s trajectory is quite notable as he made it to Lakmé Fashion Week’s Gen Next designers (2017) in his first year as a couturier, Soumodeep discovered fashion while pursuing Computer Engineering at Haldia Institute of Technology. An NIFD alumnus, he says, “On a friend’s recommendation, I applied for the entrance exam while I was in my first year. Surprisingly, I ranked 25th and that gave me a big boost, ultimately convincing me to pursue fashion designing. Everything about the subject fascinated me. Also, the fact that everything was practical rather than theoretical pumped my creative skills. It gifted me creative freedom, something that I didn’t know appealed to my soul so much. It made me feel free.”
His silhouettes have a carefree soul, something that resembles women of today. One can find asymmetrical skirts, protean dresses and even saris in looms of Bengal and Odisha that grab eyeballs easily. Playing mostly with earthy shades of black, white and blue, the Jadavpurbased designer’s style also exudes a strong sense of continuity that flows seamlessly whether in a sari, skirt or a dress. “I believe in using less scissor and needles. I am highly inspired by unstitched drapes worn by our forefathers. So, I use the draping technique in dresses and skirts as well, and maintain a natural continuity,” says Soumodeep, who works extensively with handlooms like ikat from Odisha and Bengal weaves.
We loved a bespoke breezy cotton dress that transforms into a sari with its continuing fabric. His flowy shrugs and fluid tops are also something to watch out. After the success of his two collections — God is Grey, and Aalo — Soumodeep is working on a more festive collection. He says, “The last two collections have been very plain and simple. While God is Grey played with black and white with a hint of red, the other collection, majorly on handwoven silk, was inspired by Buddhism. So, since the festive season is approaching, I want to make something that exudes a festive vibe. There will be detailing of embroidery that keeps the aesthetics of the brand intact.” He is also looking forward to foraying into sustainable fashion.
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