UJJWAL Dubey’s new collection for his label Antar Agni is a departure from his earlier work in more ways than one. First, the earthy black, browns and greys have been infused with a healthy dose of river blue and pine. Then, there seems to be a conscious move away from the draped silhouettes and dramatic cuts they have come to be known for. Into The Light, the brand’s Spring / Summer 2019 line, boasts clean lines and fuss-free garments, and yet effortlessly sticks to their androgynous aesthetic. For someone who believes that ‘fabric has its own character waiting to be explored,’ it essentially translates to clothes being given a voice of their own. And to pare all that drama down is truly remarkable.
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“Personally for me, simplicity is key. And this time around, I wanted to showcase something I would really like in my ward-robe,” explains Ujjwal, when we ask him about his decision to create something so out-of-character. “It was also prompted by the current mood in the world. It’s all about self expression, acceptance and decluttering. We wanted to be as real as possible,” adds the NIFT Kolkata-graduate.
Handwoven cotton, cotton-silk and linen blends sourced from Andhra Pradesh and Meerut have been employed extensively. And while there is no clutter, the clothes still reflect Ujjwal’s skilled craftsmanship through soft layers on kurtas and dresses. “It is a nod to our emotions, which are layered and complex,” shares the designer, who made his Lakme Fashion Week debut in 2014 in the Gen Next category. Besides long kurtas detailed with buttons down the front and maxi dresses with asymmetrical necklines, there are a mix of relaxed and roomy trousers for men and women and light summer jackets with Mandarin collars, that can also be worn as shirts.
Rs.16,000 upwards. Available online.