Suneet Varma’s bridge-to-luxury label’s latest edit is a modern ode to the ancient city, Kashi
Designer Suneet Varma’s bridge-to-luxury label SV by Suneet Varma’s newest range is fit for all occasions this winter. Unveiled at the recently held Lakme Fashion Week x FDCI, the collection, Kashi, embodies everything the name stands for. Just like the old city that holds its heritage yet remains timeless, the silhouettes in this collection meld craftsmanship with modernity through colours, textures and a visual language inspired by Kashi.
Suneet Varma on his Kashi-inspired collection and winter fashion
The bustling holy town is visualised in a deep Indian palette of reds, purples, maroons and blacks, reflecting the changing light across the Ganges and the ancient city through the day. The effortless range has jackets, dhoti skirts, draped saris, tops, tunics and trousers replete with handwork, embroidery and tassels. Suneet tells us more.
How did you translate Varanasi’s deeply spiritual environment into modern silhouettes?
For me, Kashi is an extraordinary blend of spirituality, history, colour and human emotion. I wanted to capture its soul rather than recreate it literally. The ghats, the movement of the Ganga, the ancient architecture and the energy of its narrow lanes became a starting point for exploring fluid silhouettes, contemporary separates and distinctive embellishments. I wanted to interpret these traditional influences through a modern design language, creating clothes that feel Indian in their essence but global in their attitude. This collection is my way of making Kashi’s timeless spirit relevant to today’s women.
How do you balance between high-octane glamour and the earthy, ancient ethos of Kashi?
I have always loved glamour, drama, and a certain theatricality in fashion, but I also believe that the strongest design comes from authenticity. Kashi has a raw, earthy beauty that I did not want to overpower with excessive embellishment. The balance lies in the contrasts—rich textures against fluid silhouettes, intricate Indian references against contemporary cuts, and traditional craftsmanship presented with a modern attitude. For me, glamour is as much about movement, proportion and confidence as it is about ornamentation. I wanted the collection to have our unmistakable sense of drama while retaining the spiritual depth and timeless character of Kashi.
You incorporated a specific Tree of Life artwork from a cape you designed 32 years ago at the start of your career into the Kashi landscape. What was it like revisiting that archival piece?
It was a very special and emotional experience. It reminded me of my career’s early years, when I was deeply fascinated by Indian art, symbolism and the stories embedded in our cultural heritage. The Tree of Life represents continuity, growth and the interconnectedness of all living things, which felt particularly meaningful in the context of Kashi. 32 years ago, the first time I went to Kashi to explore the city and source textiles, I learnt about the Tree of Life legacy. I did a cape with the same motif. This time I took the same artwork from my archive and drew the Kashi architectural landscape in its shadow. It felt very emotional and nostalgic.
How did you use colour to map out the architectural and cultural rhythm of the ghats and narrow lanes?
Kashi is a city of extraordinary visual contrasts. You see the earthy, weathered tones of its architecture, the saffron and vermilion associated with rituals, the richness of its textiles and flowers and the ever-changing reflections of light on the Ganga. I wanted to translate these impressions into a colour story that felt atmospheric rather than literal.
What inspires you?
I draw inspiration from music, art, travel, Indian heritage and the changing attitudes of a new generation. I love the glamour and confidence of the 1970s, strong silhouettes, beautiful fabrics and the sensuality of well-cut separates. With SV, the emphasis is on styling, fit, fabric and the ability to create multiple looks from individual pieces.
What are the winter festive wardrobe must-haves?
A beautifully tailored jacket or dramatic cape, fluid trousers, a statement skirt and a striking top that can be styled in multiple ways. These pieces allow you to move between occasions without feeling overdressed or predictable. I would also embrace rich winter textures such as velvet, silk, brocade and metallic accents in antique gold and copper. A statement piece of jewellery, a sculptural clutch or a distinctive bag can instantly elevate an ensemble.