Poonam Soni’s VVV Art Deco Collection celebrates colour and geometry

Fine jewellery designer Poonam Soni has unveiled VVV Art Deco—Vivid, Vibrant & Vintage—her latest bespoke collection, bringing together bold colour, Art Deco influences and vintage references in a distinctly contemporary setting.

How Art Deco Influenced Poonam Soni’s Jewellery Designs

VVV Art Deco was inspired by a desire to move away from her signature Art Nouveau style and create colourful, eye-catching jewellery in a new visual language. “Art Deco has always fascinated me for its unapologetic geometry, clean lines and celebration of modernity. With this collection, I wanted to take those iconic, timeless motifs and translate them into a high-fashion, eye-catching vocabulary,” says Poonam.

Vivid, Vibrant & Vintage (VVV) is an emotional and aesthetic mood board. For Poonam, it represents colour in unexpected proportions, creating impactful designs within a vintage mood that can eventually become part of a legacy.

“Vivid represents the sharp clarity of architectural forms and the intense variety of colours found in the curated gemstones. Vibrant captures the energy and rhythm of the pieces—they aren’t static museum relics; they are designed to move and breathe with the wearer. Vintage, meanwhile, is the soul of the collection. It honours the timeless romance of past eras while being re-engineered for contemporary relevance,” she explains.

Art Deco is the foundation of every silhouette in this collection. Poonam has drawn heavily on the period’s signature vocabulary of symmetry and geometric blocking.

“Interestingly, when I launched my jewellery in 1989, it was already deeply inspired by the Art Deco style of the 1920s. This collection, therefore, also feels like a return to a design language that has been an important part of my creative journey,” says Poonam.

Her idea for the stackable bangles came from the concept of creating a kaleidoscope of colours using precious stones and bringing them together to tell an artistic story. “I wanted each bangle to have a different colour and its own strong colour story. For instance, in just one green bangle, we have 10 different types of precious green stones mounted on a parrot-green base. My stack bangles are not based on the modern design technique of interlocking pieces. Instead, they are a more conservative concept of different types of bangles in different colours, creating an art palette for visual impact,” she says.

It was the concept of the stack bangles that gave her the idea of creating an unconventional chura for an experimental bride. “That is when I decided to incorporate an ‘evil eye painting’ on an ivory base to give the chura a very unique look,” she notes.

The collection took six months to develop. For Poonam, the most challenging part was getting the colours right on the bases on which the gold and precious stones are mounted.

“Hand-picking sparkling coloured stones in both bright and muted tones, and mixing and matching them to create works of art was also a challenge. Balancing architectural rigidity with organic comfort was undoubtedly another difficult part of the process. Art Deco relies on sharp, precise lines and exact geometry, but fine jewellery must feel fluid, tactile and weightless on the body. Achieving that seamless articulation required countless prototypes and master-level precision from our artisans,” she adds.

Rs 2 lakh onwards. Available online.

—manuvipin@newindianexpress.com

@ManuVipin

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