Atelier Shikaarbagh’s Hamare Ghar Ki Ladki revisits the elegance of the 1980s
Atelier Shikaarbagh’s latest collection, Hamare Ghar Ki Ladki, by designer Maayankraj Singh, recreates the atmosphere of the 1980s. It is an affectionate recollection of a generation of Indian women who taught us, perhaps without ever intending to, something about how to live.
How Family Memories Shaped Maayankraj Singh’s Latest Collection
The brand is known for collections that draw on historic garments, photographs, textiles and family recollections, interpreting them through contemporary Indian craftsmanship and the long-standing exchange between Indian and European dress. Techniques such as aari, zardozi and marodi coexist with French chiffon, fine tissue fabrics, lace and intricate hand embroidery. Known particularly for its saris, wedding poshaks, gowns and eveningwear, Atelier Shikaarbagh regards heritage not as something to be reproduced or placed behind glass, but as a living vocabulary. For the house, preservation is ultimately very simple: to understand something beautiful well enough that it can be worn, loved and handed down once again.
Maayankraj talks to us about the inspiration behind his latest collection, recreating the spirit of the 1980s and more.
What inspired Hamare Ghar Ki Ladki, and when did the idea for the collection begin?
The idea began with a very personal observation. As children, we are fascinated by the way the women in our families look. However, as we grow up, we realise that it was not just their appearance that we admired, but also the way they lived. Their approach to tradition, independence and individuality, and the way they combined these aspects, have left a lasting impression on me. Hamare Ghar Ki Ladki originated from that idea. It is about recalling those women and their world and expressing those memories through clothes. It is about carrying that values and elegance forward.
What do you remember about the women in your own family who inspired this world?
I remember them through very small, almost ordinary moments. The way they dressed for family gatherings, the fabrics they chose, the jewellery they wore, the conversations around what someone should wear for an engagement or wedding, and how everyone in the family had an opinion. Another characteristic of the way my grandparents dressed was that nothing felt too formal.
A stunning sari could be paired with an unusual blouse, inherited jewellery could be mixed with other pieces, and European and Indian styles could coexist perfectly well without seeming out of place. Of course, clothes were not the only things that made them so impressive. Alongside their deep knowledge of family traditions, they also had distinct individual personalities. These memories became a strong emotional foundation for the entire collection.
The collection is set against the atmosphere of the 1980s. What drew you to this particular decade?
What intrigued me about the 1980s was that it was an era of transition and change. Traditional Indian dressing continued to hold strong significance in the lives of families and communities, while a modern sensibility was also emerging, particularly among women who travelled and worked. The photographs from that era—the clothes, interiors, gatherings and family portraits, both formal and informal—were what initially intrigued me. Instead of trying to reproduce those images, I wanted to understand what made them so unique.
How did you recreate the spirit of the 1980s without making the collection feel like retro fashion?
We deliberately avoided using the 1980s as a visual costume. Rather than copying shapes or details, we focused on the ease of the decade. The clothing is soft, flowing and thoughtful. French chiffon, silk tissue and georgette create movement, while embroidery and other surface details reveal themselves gradually. Our aim was to capture the elegance of the decade without making the pieces feel dated for the modern woman wearing them.
What role do textiles, embroidery and traditional craft play in bringing this family story to life?
Craft plays a significant role in the vocabulary of the collection. We have combined fabrics such as French chiffon, silk tissue and georgette with French knotting, French sequin embroidery, Chantilly lace, pearl embroidery, silk floss and crewel embroidery, alongside Indian craftsmanship. The fusion of Indian and European influences has been part of Indian wardrobes for some time. It reflects the way these women dressed, incorporating different influences into their personal styles. Craft enables us to narrate this story through texture, detail and movement rather than relying on literal references.
Rs 14,840 onwards. Available online.
—manuvipin@newindianexpress.com
@ManuVipin
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