SAAZ by Ridhi Mehra weaves heritage crafts into relaxed, painterly glamour

Couture designer Ridhi Mehra’s latest capsule collection, SAAZ, brings together some of the many artistic traditions that have shaped India’s visual and cultural identity—from architecture and painting to embroidery, music and movement. Rather than reproducing these references, the designer reworks them through a contemporary couture lens, combining intricate craftsmanship with lighter construction, fluid silhouettes and a more relaxed sense of grandeur.

How Ridhi Mehra keeps each collection distinct

The womenswear edit includes sculpted corsets, contemporary lehengas, drape saris, jewelled blouses, crystal-studded capes, anarkalis and refined kurta sets. Familiar Ridhi Mehra silhouettes are softened through fluid construction, graceful movement and considered detailing.

The collection’s artwork draws from India’s rich decorative traditions, with patola, pichwai, marodi and kashida reinterpreted through contemporary placements and refined detailing. Floral references inspired by chintz, Persian gardens and painterly watercolour botanicals sit alongside geometric filigree, jewellery-inspired motifs and symmetrical compositions. Crystal embellishments, handcrafted textures and detailed kaleeras add to the couture character.

The artistic narrative extends into menswear with sherwani sets, bundi sets, kurta sets, front-open jacket ensembles and statement dushalas. Crafted in raw silk, fine silk, chanderi and organza, the edit combines clean tailoring with intricate hand embroidery. “The name SAAZ evokes the idea of arrangement, rhythm and the coming together of distinct elements to create something cohesive. Across the collection, different crafts, colours, textures, prints and stories converge to form one unified visual language where heritage and contemporary design exist in effortless harmony,” explains Ridhi, who is known for launching several collections each year. So, how does she keep each one distinct?

“Each collection starts with a different inspiration, mood, material or visual idea, giving the design process room to explore new possibilities. This often leads to experimentation with fabrics, textures, proportions, colours and new ways of interpreting traditional crafts. The aim is to keep every collection distinctly Ridhi Mehra, while giving each one its own identity, mood and story,” says the designer, who has embraced a romantic, layered, painterly and luminous aesthetic, with greater emphasis in this collection on the interplay of colour, print, texture, layering and light.

“While earlier collections may have been more strongly defined by embroidery and craftsmanship, SAAZ takes a broader approach, allowing the garment to unfold through multiple visual elements rather than being driven by a single dominant technique. We have replaced heavily constructed grandeur with a more effortless expression,” says Ridhi.

On reinterpreting traditional Indian elements such for SAAZ, she says, “The approach is rooted in reinterpretation rather than replication, drawing from the essence of each traditional craft—its motifs, geometry, florals, detailing, rhythm and technique—and translating these elements into modern silhouettes and unexpected surfaces.”

For instance, pichwai finds expression through painterly florals and evocative storytelling, while patola inspires graphic motifs, structured patterns and vibrant colour. Kashida lends its delicate floral language and handcrafted detailing, while marodi brings richness and dimensionality to the surface. “Through this process, traditional references remain recognisable yet are transformed into something fresh, contemporary and relevant to the modern wearer,” she says.

The florals in SAAZ were envisioned to feel romantic and organic rather than literal, drawing inspiration from the delicate beauty of chintz, and softer, watercolour-inspired botanicals. “Across the collection, florals emerge through print, appliqué, embroidery and intricate surface embellishment, creating the impression that they are naturally growing and unfolding across the garments. Varying scales, compositions and treatments ensure that the floral language remains dynamic and never feels repetitive,” says Ridhi. The result is a painterly, feminine and slightly dreamlike aesthetic that brings softness, movement and a sense of whimsy to the collection.

Her approach to crystals, mirrors and handcrafted details has been one of restraint and balance, with embellishment thoughtfully used to enhance the garment rather than overpower it. The menswear is conceived as an independent expression rather than simply a masculine interpretation of the womenswear. While both wardrobes belong to the same creative world, each maintains its own identity and visual language.

“The idea is for couples to feel connected through a shared story, without necessarily wearing the same story. Menswear therefore places greater emphasis on refined tailoring, considered proportions, rich fabrics and subtle detailing, rather than mirroring the ornate embroidery of the womenswear. This more understated approach allows both wardrobes to complement one another naturally, creating a sense of harmony without uniformity,” she says.

Rs 30,000 onwards for menswear, and Rs 89,800 onwards for womenswear.

—manuvipin@newindianexpress.com

@ManuVipin

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