HUEMN blurs the lines between beauty and terror at Lakme Fashion Week x FDCI
The gender-fluid label Huemn by Pranav Misra and Shyma Shetty is known for its non-conformist design elements that often reflect the tales of the time. Their provocative showcase in collaboration with R|Elan at Lakme Fashion Week x FDCI evoked extreme feelings of adulation and abhorrence.
With beauty and terror at its heart, the edit draws inspiration from the current socio-political and cultural affairs. Archival craft techniques, original prints, experimental surfaces and contemporary sportswear silhouettes define the collection. Pranav integrated seven of R|Elan’s fabric technologies, including Kooltex, GreenGold, Cotluk, EcoTher m, AllClima, EcoGold and AirTherm to build the collection.
Among the standout pieces was an oxblood denim jacket with intricate chikankari embroidery. Pranav also introduced an original snakeskin print, which was pretty unconventional, as was the Mummy top inspired by the wrapped and layered forms of Egyptian mummies.We spoke with Pranav to learn more.
What makes this specific collection a defining moment for the brand?
HUEMN goes on the runway only when there is something to say. Seasons have never really concerned us. If there is nothing to say, I’d rather stay in the studio and keep working. But this time, with everything that is happening around the world, it felt like the right moment to be present. Not to make a statement for the sake of it, but to say something the only way we know, through our art.
What stories run through this collection?
The idea is to reimagine athleisure. A consistent HUEMN code that surfaces here is the juxtaposition of beauty and terror, reinforced across surfaces, themes, visual moods and techniques. It’s open to interpretation: I’m creating what I want to, or what I’m inspired by. So, the process is much more inward rather than what people may perceive.
Are there specific techniques, surface developments, or statement pieces in this line that mark a complete departure from your past collections?
Yes, while some codes are signature to the house, others are, of course, newer additions. The mummy-inspired top in particular, is one such interesting piece, which is entirely bandaged. This top first appeared as a concept in 2013 and has now resurfaced after 12-13 years. Another idea is the use of hair, which started about a year ago.