Inside Ankur Verma’s ode to moss, skin, and the art of growing old
Among the designers whose work stood out for their individuality and purpose at the recently concluded Lakme Fashion Week in partnership with FDCI, Ankur Verma’s name shines brightly. His collection, Still Becoming, looks at skin in relation to moss. Just as moss settles onto a surface, spreading slowly, building texture and creating its own landscape, skin, too, evolves with time. The much-dreaded and often erased signs of ageing, including freckles, wrinkles, and pigmentation, are actually markers of growth.
The collection’s visual language also draws from English fashion muse Lou Lou de la Falaise and Isla Vandamme, whose individuality, lived in beauty and instinctive approach to dressing resonate with Ankur’s design philosophy.
To showcase the evolution, wisdom and beauty gained through age and experience, Ankur opened the show with 85-year-old Belgian model Isla Vandamme, who sashayed down the ramp with nothing hiding her wrinkled face.
Textures remain at the heart of TIL. Ankur worked extensively with hand embroidery, fabric manipulation, quilting, patchwork and textile waste, creating surfaces that almost feel alive. Natural fabrics such as handwoven cotton, silk and Chanderi let these textures breathe.
To replicate the evolving surfaces, Ankur used fabric remnants, katrans, discarded threads and leftover materials, reimagining them as garments and placing waste at the starting point rather than the end. To celebrate moss, the palette has shades of mossy olives, acidic limes, scarlet reds, earthy browns and weathered natural tones. Fluid dresses, shirts, jackets and separates layered across the body like surfaces accumulating traces over time. Ankur takes us through the vivid tapestry of time and the stories it tells on our faces.
What was the idea behind the collection?
I have always been fascinated by the human body and the stories our skin carries that make us who we are. With Still Becoming, I wanted to take that conversation a little further. I was inspired by how nature grows over time, particularly moss and the way it quietly finds its place on surfaces. We translated this idea into textiles, creating surfaces that resemble little living landscapes, almost like textile terrariums. What makes this collection different is how we approached upcycling. We used textile waste as a central design material, giving discarded fabrics new life through intricate craftsmanship.
Is menswear becoming interesting?
Finally, menswear is more experimental than ever, and I find that incredibly exciting. Men no longer fear colours. They explore textures and play with unconventional silhouettes. This winter festive season, I see a beautiful shift towards individuality, where traditional occasion wear meets contemporary expression. Rich textures, intricate hand embroidery, unexpected layering, and relaxed yet statement-making silhouettes will take centre stage. And that’s exactly what we are bringing to the table.
What new trends will emerge in this realm in 2027?
I think 2027 will be about individuality, versatility and a much more conscious relationship with clothing. The boundaries between traditional Indian clothing and contemporary menswear will become increasingly fluid. We may see more hybrid silhouette jackets inspired by traditional Indian garments, softer tailoring, unconventional layering and separates that can be styled in multiple ways.
I also believe textile innovation will become increasingly important, but not necessarily through technology alone. Sometimes innovation is simply looking at an old craft through a completely new perspective.
Upcycling, handwoven textiles and surface development will play a bigger role in occasion wear. The future of occasion wear should be about pieces that stay with you, not pieces that remain in your wardrobe waiting for another occasion.
What are the wedding wardrobe must-haves for men in 2027?
A beautifully tailored jacket, either handembroidered or in textured fabric. A relaxed kurta set in a beautiful natural textile, a statement shirt, a versatile bandhgala and a pair of well-cut relaxed trousers. But beyond specific garments, I think the biggest must-have is personality
What are the plans for your label in the coming year?
The coming year will be an exciting chapter for TIL. We have been slowly taking our work beyond India. After showcasing our work in cities including Japan, Milan, London and Riga, I want to keep building meaningful relationships with international buyers, creative communities and people who genuinely appreciate the language of our textiles. Another focus is exploring how textile waste can become more integral to our design process.
The 2026 fashion statements you liked most
One of my favourite shifts in 2026 has been the growing confidence in personal dressing. I love seeing people mix vintage pieces with contemporary clothing, wear traditional textiles in unexpected ways, and become less concerned with following a particular trend. I have also enjoyed the return of expressive textures, interesting layering and relaxed tailoring. For me, the most beautiful fashion statement of 2026 is the freedom to look like yourself.
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