Anurag Gupta’s new collection weaves grassroots resilience and dignity into contemporary luxury
Anurag Gupta explores resilience, dignity and freedom of choice in collaboration with Earthomadic Foundation for his latest collection showcase at Lakme Fashion Week x FDCI. A tribute to the women of Bisokhar in Uttar Pradesh, this edit brings together traditional craftsmanship, natural fibres and contemporary design to create meaningful livelihood opportunities for rural women artisans. Anurag tells us more.
How did your collaboration with these rural artisans shape the collection’s foundational narrative?
The collection began as a tribute to the women of Bisokhar and an effort to bring attention to a deeply felt yet rarely spoken-about concern. We began by studying the region and exploring locally available materials, which led us to water hyacinth. Working with the women artisans, we transformed this overlooked plant into a medium for craft and expression. It became the foundation for developing knits, embroideries and prints, all integrated into the brand’s experimental design language. At its heart, the collection honours these women, their resilience and their remarkable craftsmanship.
How do traditional craftsmanship and natural fibres translate these deeply personal human stories onto the runway?
We wanted to push the boundaries of what natural fibres can achieve and showcase the complexity of craftsmanship these women are capable of. By bringing their traditional techniques together with my signature silhouettes, textures and construction, we created pieces that challenge perceptions of both the material and the craft. The collection celebrates their skills and the possibilities that emerge when traditional craftsmanship meets experimental design.
How does this collection create meaningful, long-term livelihood opportunities and financial independence for the women behind the craft?
This collaboration began with the intention of making the women the true beneficiaries of their craft. We wanted to bring their work to a platform it deserves and create fashion with a purpose beyond the visual. We hope this exposure encourages the industry to incorporate their craft at every level, creating continued opportunities for them to earn through their skills. For us, success is seeing their work valued, sought after and sustained long after the collection itself.
How have you adapted indigenous skill sets to meet modern, discerning design sensibilities without diluting their authentic roots?
Our approach was to bring indigenous craftsmanship and contemporary design together without losing the essence of either. We stayed true to my experimental design language while keeping the craft at the centre, allowing it to lead rather than serve as mere embellishment. We embraced the raw, organic qualities of material, preserving its origins and process while pushing the craft into new design territories.
Modern consumers are increasingly looking beyond aesthetics, demanding transparency about who made their clothes and the socio-economic impact behind them. How is purpose-led design changing the value proposition of artisanal fashion in India?
I believe these demands are necessary, and the industry should be increasingly accountable for the stories and impact behind its products. Purpose-led design has always been an important part of our brand language, and this collection extends that philosophy. When craftsmanship creates meaningful livelihoods and gives artisans the recognition they deserve, it adds a deeper layer of value to fashion, one that goes beyond aesthetics to the people and stories behind it.
How are natural fibres and grassroots textile traditions moving from alternative niches to centre-stage luxury?
The idea of luxury has always been evolving. For some, it lies in rarity; for others, in a name. Today, there is a growing appreciation for the story, skill and thought behind what we wear. Natural fibres and grassroots crafts are gaining recognition as designers push their boundaries and showcase their potential. In an increasingly digital and disconnected world, people are also seeking a deeper connection with what they consume, bringing renewed value to natural materials, human skill and sustainability.
Why is direct artisan collaboration becoming more important today?
I believe luxury should begin with people. Direct artisan collaboration connects a product to the hands, skills and stories behind it. Simply referencing a craft means little if the people who preserve it are not valued or fairly compensated. Working closely with artisans allows us to understand their skills, respect their knowledge and explore new possibilities together. True luxury lies not just in the final product, but in the people, process and purpose behind it.
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