Pallavi Mohan brings whimsy to bridalwear with new collection
Designer Pallavi Mohan’s latest collection, Wilted Roses & Champagne, is not a by-product of trend. It has stemmed from intoxicating beauty that exists after the celebration, in the space between elegance and imperfection, fantasy and reality, romance and rebellion. And it’s her label Not So Serious’s first encounter with a lehenga. Dramatic, feminine skirts in feather-trimmed silhouettes are paired with statement blouses. Designed for sangeet, cocktail, mandap, and slow dancing, the collection has shimmering occasion dresses, feather-light minis, and statement separates that can be remixed and reworn. The colours include noir black, champagne gold, antique ivory, blush rose, deep berry, and moonlit silver.
“We’ve always believed that occasion wear should feel as individual as the women wearing it. Wilted Roses & Champagne celebrates that idea. Through sculptural florals, intricate craftsmanship, expressive silhouettes, and our signature feather details, we wanted to create pieces that feel like memories in motion,” says Pallavi as she takes us through the details of this impressive collection.
Your latest collection brings a beautiful, dreamlike Parisian-inspired aesthetic to life. How did you balance that classic French effortless glamour with the soulful handicraft of the Indian occasion wear?
For me, it was never about recreating Paris literally. It was more about taking the things I love about it, the glamour, the romance, the effortless way in which everything feels beautiful, and making it our own. A subtle Art Deco influence also runs through the collection. I love that sense of opulence and decoration, but we wanted to interpret it in a way that still felt light, fresh, and very Not So Serious. A big part of the collection is really this marriage of colours and textures. We have these beautiful shades of white and champagne, pearl detailing and shimmer, and then deeper, more dramatic tones like midnight blue. Nature has always been an important part of our world, and our signature 3D flowers naturally continue in this collection too. We have taken that language forward in new ways, making the florals feel more sculptural and dimensional. We have also used ribbons to create texture on the surface of the garments, playing with layers, movement and different tactile elements. And then there are the feathers, bringing all the glamour.
This collection sees the debut of your lehenga line. What was it like translating the signature, whimsical essence of Not So Serious into traditional dressing?
Honestly, it was exciting because we didn’t want to become someone else just because we were making lehengas. The idea was always to bring the Not So Serious language into Indian occasion wear. You will still find the things that are very much part of our world: 3D flowers, texture, movement, interesting surfaces, and a little bit of drama. We played with ribbons to create texture, worked with pearls, shimmer, and embroidery, and explored a colour palette that moves from beautiful whites and champagne tones to deeper shades like midnight blue. One key focus was balancing opulence with lightness. Indian occasion wear can be incredibly detailed and crafted, but I didn’t want the pieces to feel overwhelmingly heavy. We wanted them to feel like statement pieces while still being effortless to wear.
Tell us about the intricate craftsmanship that went into combining ostrich feathers, crystals, and delicate beadwork for this line-up.
This collection is really a celebration of texture. So, we worked with feathers, crystals, pearls, beadwork, ribbons, and sculptural 3D flowers, allowing all these different elements to create interesting surfaces. The feathers bring movement and glamour. The crystals and shimmer play beautifully with the light. Pearls bring softness, while the flowers and ribbons add dimension and texture. It is almost like building a surface layer by layer.
What inspires you as a designer?
I am inspired by a lot of things that don’t necessarily begin with fashion. Nature is always a big one: flowers, colours, texture and the way light changes everything. I am fascinated by surfaces and small details, which is probably why I am always thinking about new ways to create texture. Art and design also inspire me a lot. This time, a particular Art Deco influence stood out: the glamour, the opulence and the decorative details. Sometimes inspiration comes from something as simple as a colour. A beautiful shade of white, champagne, the richness of midnight blue or the softness of pearls. Sometimes it is literally a ribbon, a flower or the way something catches the light. I think I am constantly collecting little things without realising it. Eventually, they all find their way into the collection.
What’s working in bridal fashion this year?
I think individuality is having a very good year! Brides are becoming much more comfortable choosing what actually feels like them. There is no longer one definition of what a bridal look has to be. You can wear white. You can wear champagne. You can choose a dramatic midnight blue moment. You can go all out with pearls and 3D flowers, or keep things more effortless and let one beautiful statement detail do all the talking. Accessories are becoming more important. Gloves, capes, and interesting styling details can completely transform a look and make it feel much more personal. Bridal fashion is becoming less about following rules and more about creating your own moment.
What are the bridal wardrobe must-haves?
One unforgettable statement lehenga. One look that lets you dance without constantly asking someone to hold your dupatta. Something with beautiful texture, whether that is 3D flowers, ribbons, pearls, or interesting surface detailing. And I am a big believer in accessories. A dramatic pair of gloves or a beautiful cape can take a look from lovely to main-character-has-arrived. And, of course, you need at least one outfit for a proper grand entrance. But the biggest must-have is comfort and confidence. You should feel beautiful, but you should also be able to enjoy the celebration. Nobody looks glamorous while secretly counting the minutes until they can change out of their outfit!
Tell us about your upcoming collection.
I am already thinking about the next story, which is both exciting and probably slightly annoying for my team! I can’t reveal too much yet, but I think the things that define our world will keep evolving: craftsmanship, femininity, texture, colour and a sense of playfulness. Our 3D flowers will always be a part of our design language, but I am constantly interested in finding new ways to interpret them. I also love exploring different surfaces, new textures, and unexpected combinations of materials. And there will always be some amount of glamour and drama. I wouldn’t know how to design completely without it. But ultimately, I want every collection to create a feeling. Something that makes you smile, makes you want to touch it, wear it, photograph it, and maybe make a slightly dramatic entrance while you are at it.