This new bar in Chennai brings neighbourhood watering hole culture to the fore

Chef Adrial Branco takes Indian flavours on a global detour with his new menuWalk through the Hotel Green Park lobby and turn left, and the polish gives way to 183 Kudi Kadai, a bar inspired by Chennai's Tasmac outlets, the neighbourhood watering holes. Exposed brick, distressed concrete, vintage posters and an old wall-mounted telephone set the tone. Inside, warm amber lighting, dark ceilings and wooden furniture lend the space a cosy, industrial character.

To the left is a counter for patrons who want to step in, finish a quick drink and get on with their day, while the other side has seating for those who prefer to settle in and drink at leisure.

Anchoring the main room is the bar, framed by industrial wire mesh, a nod to the metal grilles at traditional local liquor outlets. A thallu vandi (pushcart) parked inside carries packets of murukku, jars of quintessential bar snacks and even newspapers, recreating the familiar, everyday economy of these neighbourhood watering holes.

We began with the Dry dayquarter, holy basil and soda, which tastes like the theertham offered in temples. A rather auspicious start for a Tasmac-inspired bar, and an irony we thoroughly enjoyed. From the cart came the Malai murukku, hung curd and garlic mayo under crushed murukku, dusted with a house seasoning. Among the ‘Chinna Plates’, the Ghee sambar idli arancini is the one to order. Mellow sambar rice sits inside a crisp shell, with a thick kadamba chutney alongside.

The Nei milagai prawns are ghee roasted in Mangalorean spice, soft and juicy, their sweetness holding up against the rich gravy. The Mutton muttai varuval, Madurai style, reminded us of home and was well executed.

The cocktail names are playful. Machi oru guava sollu borrows from a famous film line, and Meter down turns curd rice into a rum drink. Pulianthoppu pulippu is gin with tamarind cordial and sesame, finished with curry leaf tempering and foam, and it tastes like a train journey and a packed tiffin box. It is very well done. Kudi Kadai Reserve, tequila with tomato rasam, is pleasantly picante-like and could use a little more refinement. Elaneer elikayam, vodka with tender coconut payasam, is a must-try.

On to ‘Periya Plates’. The prawns kadai saadam borrows the thrifty trick of a mother scraping the pan with rice, here applied to a rich coconut prawn curry, another excellent nod to nostalgia!

Dessert is from the ‘Inippu Pakkam’, the sweets page. Dumroot halwa layered into mini pavs arrives with tea on the side, and the Elaneer rasmalai, what can go wrong when two good things become one.

Meal for two: Rs 2,500. 11 am to 12 pm. At 183 Kudi Kadai, Vadapalani.

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