A patisserie spin on Indian nostalgia

Indian mithai gets a patisserie makeover at Ritvah, where familiar flavours find their way into cakes and tarts. We sampled two to see how the pairing holds up.

These Chennai celebration cakes dress up nostalgic mithai without losing their familiar character

We started with the Gulab jamun cheese indulgence, and the first thing that announces itself is saffron. Open the box and the sweet, floral scent fills the room before the cake even gets to the plate. Gold flecks shimmer through a jelly-like glaze threaded with saffron strands, while pistachios line the edges. Cut through the cheesecake and there’s a gulab jamun tucked inside, sitting over a thin crust. It is dense, creamy and a whole lot indulgent, with the gulab jamun bringing a familiar syrupy sweetness to the ever so slightly tangier cheesecake. Of the two, this is easily the more decadent.

The Ritvah royale takes a quieter route. It arrives looking every bit the celebration cake, finished with pistachios, almonds and touches of gold. The top is dense and rich, while the rest of the sponge is surprisingly soft and light. That contrast keeps it from becoming too heavy, and the nuts and pearls of pomegranate add just enough texture to break through the softness.

Neither cake tries to disguise where it comes from. The familiar mithai flavours remain firmly in the foreground, just dressed up for a different kind of celebration. If you like your desserts nostalgic but a little dressed up, these two make a sweet argument for the crossover.

Rs 1,999 onwards. 11 am to 12 am. At Ritvah, ITC Grand Chola, Guindy.

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