Naan Khaliya: The 700-year-old mutton dish created to feed an army

Naan Khaliya is an authentic mutton dish, popular in the region of Chhatrapati Sambhajinagar, earlier known as Aurangabad in Maharashtra. According to its history, it is said that this delicacy originated way back in 1327, when Sultan Muhammad bin Tughlaq wanted to shift his capital from Delhi to Daulatabad. The problem of providing food to his soldiers on their way was difficult, and thus qalia came about.

Naan Khaliya: From soldiers’ food to a regional delicacy

The original qalia dish was allegedly cooked by royal cooks called shahi bawarchis for the purpose of providing sustenance to those who would be travelling over a distance of more than one thousand kilometres. It has also been linked with the term siphaaiyon ka khana, which translates to soldiers’ food.

These earlier recipes contained ginger, coriander, turmeric, salt, and a blend of spices. Turmeric reportedly replaced saffron because it was more affordable and accessible, while lending the gravy a distinctive yellow colour.

The gravy is cooked for hours in a big cauldron, called a degh. Lemon or yoghurt gives tartness to the dish, while the dry coconut gives flavour in regional varieties of the recipe. A layer of oil called 'tari' makes the dish complete in terms of its spicy finish. In nearby Khuldabad, lemon is used instead of yoghurt.

It is said that Muhammad bin Tughlaq liked to break his roti or chapati into bits and soak it in the Naan Khaliya. His bread soaked up the liquid, thus swelled, and made a filling meal for him. Such eating habits persisted even in some areas of Uttar Pradesh.

Naan Khaliya today enjoys a unique status in the culinary culture of Chhatrapati Sambhajinagar. It is prepared during marriages and other occasions. Alongside landmarks such as the Ajanta and Ellora Caves and Bibi ka Maqbara, Naan Khaliya provides another way to experience the state's history and cultural identity.

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