A 179-year-old Surma legacy still thrives in Mumbai

Mumbai's oldest surma makers have quietly preserved a family tradition in Dongri for nearly 179 years, taking their traditional eye cosmetic from a home workshop to 16 countries
Mumbai's oldest surma makers have kept the Banatwalla family's traditional craft alive since 1847
A 179-year-old beauty tradition: Mumbai's oldest surma makers stilltThrive
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2 min read

In the narrow streets of Pala Gali, Dongri, Mumbai's oldest surma makers have been carrying on a tradition since 1847. The Banatwalla family has been manufacturing surma for almost 179 years. Over this period of time, the family firm has managed to survive through changing circumstances, a serious health debate, and shifting consumer behaviour, yet maintaining its traditional products as its main priority.

How Mumbai's oldest surma makers began the tradition with an act of kindness

It all starts with Bai Rantanbai, who was the great-great-great-grandmother of Shakir Banatwalla, the sixth-generation custodian of the family. The Banatwalla family members were originally spindlers; hence the name.

Feeding poor people was something that Bai Rantanbai had become famous for. She used to allocate some portion of the money earned by the family for charitable purposes on a regular basis. Once, there came an old man who requested food in lieu of money.

After having his meal, he handed over written papers and told her to manufacture the products mentioned in the papers. He promised that if the instructions were followed properly, it would help her family sustain itself for several generations. This incident marked the starting point of Mumbai's oldest surma makers' journey.

Prices range from ₹40 for 1 gram to ₹90 for 5 grams
The company sells around 80 to 90 lakh units a year

The family would prepare only surma for close to 100 years. With increasing demand, they established a little store. They sold their surma near mosques and attar stores in Bombay. Kerala remained one of their best-selling markets domestically.

Mumbai's oldest surma makers have also diversified into manufacturing pain-relieving balms, massage oil, ointment, eye drops, and skincare products. This diversification was spearheaded by Shakir Banatwalla’s father, who is a well-trained hakim in Unani medicine.

Its surmas and kajals meet FDA safety standards too
According to the family, every batch has been lab-tested

Its varieties include moti surma, which is made from crushed Basra pearls, and mamira surma, which is made using Himalayan mamira roots. Mumbai's oldest surma makers have begun exporting their products to 16 different countries, among which Nigeria, Saudi Arabia, and Indonesia are considered as strong markets.

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Mumbai's oldest surma makers have kept the Banatwalla family's traditional craft alive since 1847
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