‘Timeless’ and ‘versatile’ are words that come up a lot in my conversation with New Delhi-based designer Suket Dhir. It’s omnipresent when we talk about his mood boards, the silhouettes and the colours he uses in his new Spring Forest women’s collection, which is being showcased at Collage, Chennai.
“It’s a long lasting and versatile collection, which can be used as casual wear as well as party wear with a little tweak and styling. Take for instance our linen shirt worn inside season after season.When worn inside a jacket, it is perfect for holidaying on the beach. By replacing it with a cotton silk shirt, the same jacket can be worn for a beach wedding,” he says.
His women’s collection is an organic extension of his menswear. “My womenswear is hugely inspired by menswear. I’ve made some complimentary pieces for women with cuffs and collars,” he says.
His brand philosophy ‘Less is more’ transcends in the garments featured in his new collection through masterful yet fun detailing, and well-thought out motifs taken from what is happening around us.
“With our collection we are tapping into a vibe, an emotion. We are euphoric and fun with a touch of childhood nostalgia. I’ve played around with fun elements, but their presentation is the least bit quirky. They elegantly embody leisure in all form, brought out through Indian animals and birds in their natural habitat in a very subtle way,” says the designer. The blackbuck, known as Krishna Mrigam, the leopard, and the hornbill, which is a popular bird in Nagaland, are characters in Dhir’s little stories woven into each print.
“I’ve a joyful approach to art, which is an extension of my life philosophy. What I portray through my designs is not my pain or anger, but my happiness. I’m a storyteller and my stories are thoughtful and joyful,” says the Woolmark Prize winning designer
His Spring Forest collection is loaded with emotions and symbolism, and as the designer explains each and every motif, we discover clever themes, astute references and hidden messages. “For instance, the hornbill with a mike and cool hat represents the North East people who are stylish, confident and cool with a strong point of view,” he says. And the blackbuck blowing bubble gum wearing leg warmers is an obvious nod to Jane Fonda and the 80s!
“The designs are filled with nostalgia and I would even call it old school in its design references and engineering,” he says. His trousers are engineered with invisible waist bands, which will expand up to 3 inches. They have adjustable brass buckles on the sides. “Even if you put on some weight, you can still use them,” he explains.
Dhir is continually exploring the possibilities for the creation of ethically made sustainable garments with impeccable attention to textiles and craftsmanship. “I’m a textile designer and print maker. To design a single print for the Spring Forest collection took me about 10 months and the entire collection took almost two years. They are true Indian luxury where textiles are reinvented and transformed to achieve luxurious comfort while celebrating Indian heritage and craftsmanship,” he says.
There is summer and winter garments made with different counts of khadi in cottons and cotton silks woven in plain, twill and jaamdani weaves. The garments are adorned with kantha and other clever details, trims and rich luxurious satin silk linings.
The colours are very summery and neutral – reds, corals, white beige, oyster grey and ice blue. “It’s a refreshing collection, which are tailormade for Chennai weather,” he signs off.
INR 12,000 - Rs 88,000, available at Collage, Chennai. The Spring Forest men’s collection is available online.