Here are what these Kolkata designers decode the ethnic fashion for this festive season

Gone are the days when festive dressing meant sacrificing comfort for drama. The new rules of ethnic fashion are clear: fluid silhouettes, luminous fabrics, and versatile, functional pieces that transition seamlessly from morning anjali sessions to late-night card parties. Today’s festive shopper is leaning toward handwoven cottons and rich silks in a spectrum of pastels and vibrant pop hues, elevated by unique motifs and refined, chic embroidery. Simple, wearable, and understated luxury is the ultimate goal.

Here, six city designers share what fashion lovers are seeking this season and reveal what they have in store to define your festive wardrobe.

Festive fashion: Pastels vs pop hues

While pastels and vibrant tones aren’t mutually exclusive, bright, high-energy shades are dominating women’s festive choices. “People are seeking bold colours like bright yellows, pinks, purples, oranges, and greens,” shares Parama Ghosh, founder-designer of Parama. “There is a strong love for striking, big checks paired with traditional paisley motifs on Garod saris.” This preference for vivid hues extends beyond drapes into casual and formal salwar-kurta sets as well. “We consistently lean into rich pinks for the festive season—it immediately evokes a celebratory, joy-filled mood,” adds designer Prashant Chouhan.

Conversely, menswear is skewing toward understated pastels. “Men tend to feel slightly conscious in heavily adorned or loud ethnic wear, opting instead for clean, simple silhouettes in lighter, softer palettes,” notes Prashant.

“Red and white is the ultimate popular colour combination during festive season, especially Durga Puja,” says Shoma Badoni, founder, 145 East. “We essentially do outfits with 100 per cent authentic cotton gamchha, and people are looking forward to style print on prints too. No more shying away and pairing plain blouses with gamchha saris. People want to go all out. ”

Festive wardrobe: Fabrics and changing buying habits

Jamdani continues its strong reign in both pure cotton and cotton-silk blends, while traditional Shantipuri taant is rapidly gaining momentum. Overall, breathable handwoven cottons, crisp linens, and soft handspun silks dominate festive wishlists. Ethical luxury is also making its mark: “We are receiving a steady stream of inquiries for Ahimsa Silk,” notes Writuparna Kar of Wrii Studio. “While shoppers still accept standard mulberry silk, many actively ask if their favourite pieces are available in cruelty-free Ahimsa alternatives.”

Beyond fabric choices, consumer buying habits have shifted dramatically, as Sriparna Ray of Bhomra Design Co. points out. “Traditionally, people shopped twice a year—around Poila Baisakh and Durga Puja—buying heavy ensembles to last the full year. Today, shopping is far more regular, driven by the vast array of available brands. Pujo shopping has consequently become much more practical,” she explains. “Shoppers now prioritise flexibility and versatility—like a chic shirt that doubles as workwear, or a colour palette suitable for both overseas travel and business meetings.”

Meanwhile, regional preferences add another dynamic layer to the market. “Outside Bengal, buyers are completely crushing over sheer, airy organzas,” shares Parama Ghosh.

Cuts & silhouettes to go for this festive season

When it comes to dresses and shirts, ultra-tailored cuts are taking a back seat to ease. “Even if buyers aren’t fully ready for exaggerated anti-fit silhouettes, relaxed fits are definitely in high demand,” shares Sharmistha Roychowdhury of Red Ochre. “We are also seeing fluid, gender-neutral designs gain traction, alongside a strong interest in asymmetrical cuts and striking hemlines.”

Addressing practical menswear design, Debjani Ray Chaudhuri, founder-designer of Ghuri by Debjani, focuses on thoughtful tailoring for everyday comfort. “Unlike standard off-the-rack shirts, our designs for men aged 35 to 65 are specifically cut to smartly conceal the midsection,” she explains. “It ensures complete ease—whether you are sitting down for a long feast or relaxing after a heavy festive meal—without any uncomfortable tightness around the belly.”

On the ethnic traditional front, Farshi salwar suit sets continue their strong streak from last year. Designer Prashant Chouhan notes that younger women are particularly drawn to pairing minimalist kurtas with statement bottoms, opting for heavily embellished farshis, flowing palazzos, crisp straight pants, or dramatic shararas. To it Parama added, racerback blouses, especially the embroidered ones are in demand too.

Ultimately, this season’s festive wardrobe is less about following rigid tradition and more about expressing personal ease. As Kolkata’s designers continue to bridge the gap between heritage textiles and modern functionality, the takeaway is simple: choose pieces that let you celebrate without constraint. Whether you opt for a high-octane Garod sari, a fluid Ahimsa silk tunic, or a relaxed pastel shirt, the best festive outfit is the one that carries you effortlessly from dawn anjali to midnight laughter—looking radiant every step of the way

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