Exploring Bengal’s intricate flavours at this popular diner’s latest outlet

Anyone who has will agree that it offers one of the most intricate flavour profiles in the world. From delicate, subtle nuances to rich, varied dishes, Bengali cuisine explores and balances flavour notes like no other.

Himur Heshel opens a new outlet in Salt Lake's EC Block

The second outlet of Himur Heshel reaffirms this beautifully. Sutapa Barua, aka Himu, the culinary force behind the brand, has spared no detail to do up the space. Done in soothing beige and pastel tones, the interior celebrates Bengal’s rich heritage, right from the terracotta accents of Bishnupur, hand-stitched fish and floral motifs on the mul curtains, and delicate alpana glass paintings on the windows, to an impressive fusion wall blending lippan art with traditional Bengali art.

We began with a glass of Gondhoraj ghol — a fragrant yoghurt smoothie laced with aromatic gondhoraj lime. For starters, we were served Niramish chalkumro fry. The crispy pan-fried ash gourd slices were stuffed with subtly spiced fresh cottage cheese.

There was also a quintessential Bengali fish fry albeit with a differently flavoured marination of onion-herb juice. Fried to perfection with a delicate crumb coating, it was one of our favourite bites of the afternoon. We also sampled the Dhakai chicken jali kebab — spiced, minced chicken fried within a golden, lacy net of whisked egg.

Paired with steaming white rice, the first course (prothom paat) of our mains featured Mankochu bata — a fiery, pungent paste of raw taro root, mustard seeds, and raw mustard oil — and a vibrant Lau pata bhorta for a fresh dose of greens. The standout dish, however, was the Chottogramer hathe makha chingri: rustic Chittagong-style prawns hand-mixed with raw onions and mustard oil, that tasted heavenly with warm rice.

In contrast, Faridpurer hathe makha ilish was such a departure from the usual ilish preparations that steer clear from onion. Smothered in onion-garlic paste, the smoked slices of hilsas were delectable and didn’t overpower its natural scent.

Before the curtains fell, we tumbled over to a delicious dish of Morog polau — a classic Bengali chicken pilaf slow-cooked with ghee, yoghurt, and aromatic spices. It was accompanied with Mutton kala bhuna. The deeply caramelised mutton marinated with 17 distinct Chittagong spices was slow-cooked to perfection.

With its subtle sweetness and profound umami depth, this pairing is an absolute must-try.

Meal for two: Rs 1,200++.

Timings: 12 pm to 10.30 pm.

At Himur Heshel, Salt Lake.

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