Why this new pop-up in Chennai feels like standing at a Singapore hawker stall

Singapore’s food story is really several stories stitched together—Hokkien, Cantonese, Teochew, Hainanese, and Kampong traditions all feeding into the country’s hawker culture. Chin Chin’s new pop-up, Hawker Heritage, led by Chef Sowmiya Venkatesan of Kechil Kitchen, attempts to bring a slice of that layered history to Chennai, drawing on techniques passed down through generations of hawker cooks. We sat down to see how many of those threads we could taste.

The Yu sheng was our starting point, tossed traditionally at the table with radish, carrot, cucumber, along with smoked salmon. The ritual itself, lifting chopsticks high as everything mixes, is meant to invite good fortune, and whatever the symbolism, the dish itself was crisp, fresh, and a communal way to start a meal among friends.

We moved on to the Curry puff next. Golden and flaky, it broke apart easily to reveal a warm, spiced chicken and egg filling inside. It carried the DNA of Singapore street food, with the exact kind of comfort you expect from a classic snack.

The Har cheong gai took the form of lollipops rather than the usual whole wings—dry and crisp on the outside. The shrimp paste marinade, a hallmark of the dish, came through with real clarity, lending a deep, savoury character to the chicken pieces.

The Cereal prawn was a textural delight and easily one of the more memorable plates. The cereal coating, predominantly made with milk, gave it a distinctive sweet crunch, while a gentle chilli heat ran underneath to keep the dish from feeling too rich on its own.

The Fish ball on the stick offered a lighter, bouncier counterpart. Made with tilapia fish and simple in presentation, it was the sort of snack you could imagine eating standing up at an actual hawker stall.

The Eggplant with garlic sauce was a quiet success amid the louder dishes around it. Soft and well-seasoned, the garlics did just enough work without overpowering the vegetable itself.

A proper Laksa doesn’t rush. This one had two different kinds of noodles drenched in a coconut broth that was deep, spiced, and full-bodied. For us it landed on the heavier side, so we treated it like hawker logic says you should—small sips and a slow pace.

We finished with the Ice ball, with pandan, gula melaka (palm sugar), and rose layered generously over shaved ice. Sweet and fragrant, it closed out the feast on a nostalgic note.

Hawker Heritage – Singapore is on till June 28. Meal for two: `2,500 ++. For lunch and dinner. At Chin Chin, The Residency, T Nagar.

Email: apurva.p@newindianexpress.com

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