Point Calimere, where Tamil Nadu’s wild coast comes alive with birds

At the southeastern edge of Tamil Nadu, the Coromandel Coast makes an abrupt turn where the Palk Strait meets the Bay of Bengal. Here, Point Calimere, also known as Cape Calimere or Kodiakkarai, gives way to a landscape of salt marshes, scrub forest and tidal wetlands. At Point Calimere, near Vedaranyam in Nagapattinam district, flamingos wade through shallow waters, blackbucks pick their way across open grassland and the Bay of Bengal supplies a restless soundtrack. It is an extraordinary corner of the Coromandel Coast, and the months ahead are when it becomes a destination worth travelling for.

A birdwatcher’s fever dream

Point Calimere Wildlife and Bird Sanctuary receives migratory waterbirds between October and January, with November and December considered prime birdwatching months. Flamingos, painted storks, pelicans, spoonbills and ducks are among the visitors, although sightings depend on weather and water levels. The sanctuary also protects one of southern India’s important populations of blackbuck, those elegant antelopes whose corkscrew horns and improbable leaps seem almost theatrical against the flat coastal landscape. 

Beyond the wetlands, explore Kodikkarai’s coastal landscape and the Point Calimere Lighthouse. First lit in 1890, the British-commissioned lighthouse stands within the sanctuary. The area also has an older lighthouse associated with the Chola period. The historic structure was damaged during the 2004 tsunami, so check local access conditions before making it part of your itinerary.

Come hungry, pack sensibly

Base yourself around Vedaranyam or Nagapattinam, where you can look for local Tamil meals and fresh seafood. Look for fish fry, crab masala or prawn thokku when available; vegetarian travellers can seek out banana-leaf meals with rice, kara kuzhambu and vatha kuzhambu.

Pack water, sun protection, insect repellent and comfortable footwear; the terrain can be muddy after rain, and the northeast monsoon may complicate travel. It’s best to confirm sanctuary access, local guides and accommodation before leaving, especially during rainy spells.

Email: anoushkakundu@newindianexpress.com

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