Theri Kaadu's red-sand desert in Tamil Nadu is a geological wonder worth travelling for

Tamil Nadu has many things going for it. Excellent food, extraordinary temples, a coastline that seems to go on forever. A desert, however, is not something one ordinarily associates with the state. And yet, in Thoothukudi district, there it is. Thousands of acres of red sand, windblown dunes and palmyra palms, looking for all the world like a geographical clerical error.

Theri Kaadu, Thoothukudi: Exploring Tamil Nadu's Red-Sand Desert

About 15 kilometres from Tiruchendur, Theri Kaadu gets its colour from iron-rich minerals including ilmenite, magnetite, hematite, garnet and rutile. Weathering and oxidation have given the sand its distinctive red pigmentation. The dunes themselves are believed to have formed through a combination of ancient marine deposits and wind-driven sediment movement, with red loam carried eastwards from the Nanguneri plains over thousands of years. 

The place has no business supporting so much life, at least not to the casual observer. Palmyra palms and cashew trees punctuate the red earth, while scrub vegetation provides cover for fan-throated lizards, jackals and an assortment of birds, including the green bee-eater. Sand boas move through the terrain, largely out of sight and, one suspects, perfectly happy with that arrangement. The sand, meanwhile, is doing some important work. Its porous layers absorb rainwater, feeding freshwater springs known locally as sunai. Beneath all that apparent desolation is an ecosystem with a sophisticated arrangement for keeping itself alive.

The northeast monsoon is active along this coast between October and December, so check the forecast before setting out and aim for a clear spell. December to March is generally a safer bet. Get there early in the morning or towards sunset, unless you enjoy being roasted alive under the Tamil Nadu sun. Wear loose cotton or linen, sturdy closed shoes and a hat. Carry sunscreen, sunglasses, plenty of drinking water and a face mask or buff to keep blowing sand and dust out of your nose and mouth. There are no proper food stalls among the dunes, so pack some snacks and plan to eat in Tiruchendur or a nearby town.

Make a day of it. Stop at Arunchunai Kaatha Ayyanaar Temple in Melaputhukkudi, where a natural freshwater spring and its surrounding ponds sit beneath the shade of old trees. Then head to Tiruchendur's Arulmigu Subramaniya Swamy Temple, one of Murugan's six sacred abodes. While the others are associated with hill country, this one stands right beside the sea, its towering gopuram looking out over the Gulf of Mannar. If time permits, continue to Manapad's Holy Cross Church, built in 1581 around a wooden cross associated with a Portuguese shipwreck. St Francis Xavier spent time in this coastal village in the 1540s, and his presence remains part of its religious history.

By now, lunch should be very much on the agenda. Find yourself some meen varuval, preferably hot off the pan, or a bowl of karuvadu kuzhambu with a generous helping of rice. Before leaving town, track down Thoothukudi macaroons, those delicate, cashew-heavy little confections with their curious Portuguese connections. And don't leave without some Udangudi panangkarupatti, the palm jaggery is a regional speciality, and a rather good thing to have tucked into your bag for the journey home.

Email: anoushkakundu@newindianexpress.com

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