Pench, Rukhad and Kanha: Exploring India’s wild heart in Madhya Pradesh’s tiger country

Growing up with The Jungle Book, the forest existed largely in our imaginations as a place where Mowgli ran barefoot with Baloo while Bagheera kept watch from the high branches. Pench, often associated with the landscape that inspired Rudyard Kipling’s stories, was where we began our journey into a world we had once known only through books, cartoon series and movies.

Our trip began at Nagpur airport, with a drive along NH44 towards Pench Jungle Camp, one of Jungle Camps India’s properties on the edge of Pench Tiger Reserve. During the drive, we watched through the window as the city gave way to villages, wide meadows and green farmlands, with low hills appearing in the distance. By the time we reached the camp, a herd of spotted deer and a troop of langurs had appeared near the entrance, offering a welcome no check-in desk could quite match.

Pench Jungle Camp

Spread across a 50-acre forested estate, Pench Jungle Camp has cottages and tents set among existing trees. We checked into our Luxury Safari Tent, a spacious canvas accommodation with a verandah, an ensuite bathroom and large windows overlooking the greenery.

Inside, the tent had a sofa, a daybed by the window, a mini fridge, a locker and an air-conditioner. Tiny printed leopards dotted the canvas roof, while tiger-striped cushion covers brought a playful touch to the room. Stained-glass panels added colour, and the fan overhead was shaped like a giant helicopter seed, resembling the winged samaras we used to collect as children.

The daybed by the window quickly became our favourite spot. We could stretch out and watch the trees just beyond the glass, letting the greenery do most of the entertaining. Wi-Fi was available at the reception and restaurant, but not inside the tents, making it easier to step away from the rush of city life.

After a little rest, we headed to the restaurant, Ali Katta, which takes its name from the spot where jeeps stop for breakfast inside Pench National Park. Its interiors feature a tree-like pillar, painted branches across the ceiling and illustrations of leopards, langurs, birds and butterflies. Lunch was served on a thali with paneer, bhindi, baingan bharta and chicken curry, alongside dal, rotis, rice, salad and papad. The dal was particularly good, and we finished with semiya mahua kheer topped with nuts.

After lunch, we joined naturalist Samrat Godambe for a walk around the property’s 40-acre Eco Park near Turia Gate. As we wandered past the tents and cottages, we learnt that Pench was the first property established by Jungle Camps India. Founded in 2002, Jungle Camps India Limited is India’s only publicly listed wildlife safari company. We were also impressed to learn that the company has planted over four lakh native trees, including sal, teak and bamboo.

Cicadas filled the air as we moved along the paths, passing lemongrass and colourful butterflies. Samrat pointed out a golden orb spider and explained that the remains of a calcified deer skull on the forest floor could indicate that a tiger had made a kill nearby. The possibility of a tiger moving through the surrounding forest made us look around more carefully.

When we asked Gajendra Singh Rathore, chairperson and managing director of Jungle Camps India, about the thinking behind the stays, he explained, “Everything else, the room, the food and the service, is done well so that it can recede into the background and allow the forest to remain the protagonist.”At Pench, with the trees visible from our window and the forest never far from view, we could see what he meant.

As the sun dipped, the trees took on a golden hue. Dinner was served outdoors among the bamboo. Already full from the hearty lunch, we stuck to a few appetisers and some smooth red wine. A lamp fashioned from a recycled glass bottle glowed on the table as the evening breeze made it tempting to linger past our planned bedtime.

During dinner, Yash Rajput, the camp’s general manager, joined us, and our conversation turned to the wildlife that draws guests to Pench. “The birds are often the biggest surprise. Everyone arrives for the tiger; by day two, they’re asking to borrow binoculars at breakfast,” he laughed.

The next morning, we set off at around 5.30 am for a safari. With the core zones closed for the season, we headed into a buffer zone of Pench Tiger Reserve with naturalist Prabhir Patil. Jungle Camps India had planned our itinerary and arranged the safaris, naturalists and guides, leaving us free to focus on the forest.

The monsoon off-season had its own allure. The weather was cool and damp, making long drives and walks through the forest comfortable without the summer heat or winter chill. A few other families were around, but the camp and trails felt peaceful, giving us more room to enjoy the woods at our own pace.

Unlike the core zones, where phones are prohibited and must be left at the hotel or deposited at designated facilities, Madhya Pradesh’s buffer zones allow visitors to carry them. We could photograph and film the wildlife along the way without leaving our phones behind.

Before reaching our destination, we passed cattle decorated with colourful motifs stamped onto their coats for Bail Pola, an agrarian festival celebrating working cattle. At Khawasa Gate, we came across the world’s tallest tiger sculpture made entirely from scrap metal, standing 17 ft 6 inches tall and stretching 40 ft long. Nearby, we stopped at a souvenir shop and picked up a few keepsakes.

During the safari, Prabhir pointed out waterholes, termite mounds, trees and birds, often identifying them by their calls. We spotted electric-blue peacocks, handsome nilgais and a herd of sambar deer. Spotted deer appeared along the tracks, sometimes pausing long enough to look straight at the cameras. At one point, a red-wattled lapwing let out a sharp call that sounded uncannily like “Did you do it?” The question caught us completely off guard, and we burst out laughing.

We returned without a tiger or leopard sighting, but that does not mean the buffer zones are devoid of big cats. Tigress Jugni, for instance, has been spotted with her four cubs in Pench’s Khawasa buffer zone, a reminder that the forest can spring a surprise when we least expect it.

We stopped for a picnic-style breakfast laid out on the hood of the jeep. Poha, parathas, sandwiches, muffins, bananas, juice, tea, biscuits and boiled eggs made for a welcome break.

On the return drive, we were met with light rain. With the jeep’s hood open, we cruised along the forest road, lush greenery on either side, wind in our faces and raindrops on our skin. For a few minutes, it felt as though we were the main characters in a film, and the scene was almost too good to be true. Back at camp, ginger-honey tea and a steaming hot shower were exactly what we needed. The afternoon was slower, with lunch and some time by the pool.

Rukhad Jungle Camp

Later that day, we drove to Rukhad Jungle Camp for a visit. The forest here felt more rustic, and the roads were less even than in Pench. Rukhad lies within the buffer forest of Pench Tiger Reserve, in a wildlife corridor connecting the Pench and Kanha landscapes.

The Jal Mahal Cottage sat beside a lake, its setting reflected in the still water. Of the three properties, the view at Rukhad stayed with us most vividly. We did not stay overnight but explored the property and drank tea at a machan-like dining area overlooking the landscape. The lake shimmered below as birds moved through the trees and the breeze made it easy to forget the time.

We were told that tigers and leopards sometimes visit the waterbody, though we did not see either. A kingfisher flashed past, and monkeys moved around the property, including a mother carrying her baby on her back. We kept a close eye on our phones, wary of a possible snatch-and-run, but the troop paid us little attention.

Kanha Jungle Camp

The following day, we left Pench for Kanha Jungle Camp, a drive of around five hours through fields, villages and greenery. The monsoon had left the landscape lush, with rain clouds gathering over the hills. Cold towels and fruit juice awaited us at the camp.

We checked into the Elevated Luxury Cottage, which stood about 10 ft above the ground, drawing on the form of traditional machans. The property was spread across a forested landscape, with cottages looking out towards trees and a waterbody crossed by a footbridge.

Our cottage was essentially a glass treehouse, with floor-to-ceiling windows offering panoramic views of the surrounding greenery. A private deck extended the space outdoors, while a couch by the window became our favourite place to sit. Gond artwork by local artists adorned our room as well as the restaurant, reception and waiting areas.

The elevated setting brought us closer to the canopy, but the winding paths between the cottages and common areas could be confusing. After dark, the walk to the restaurant felt a little unnerving, especially when we spotted a small viper on the path to our room. We were glad to have staff nearby and would recommend asking for an escort when moving around at night. Buggies were also available to ferry guests between the cottages and common areas.

The dining hall carried the same glasshouse feel, with a veranda overlooking the pool. Lunch brought a lip-smacking comforting spread of roti, dal, cauliflower sabzi, chicken curry, paneer sabzi and sev-tomato. We tucked in before heading out for an afternoon walk along the Bamhni trail with naturalist Bhupesh Taram.

The forest here felt rawer and denser than at Pench. We saw the Banjar river, which, ironically, was gushing with water after the rains. The trail led us past moss-covered ground, lichens, black wood mushrooms and termite hills rising several feet above the forest floor. By the time we returned, burrs and seeds had caught on our trousers, leaving us looking like accidental pollinators.

By late evening, we were tired from the walk, and with rain setting in, we decided to stay in and order room service. Chapati, rice, dal, mutton curry, paneer and chicken tikka kebabs made for a cosy dinner as the rain tapped against the cottage.

Our final morning began with an early safari in Kanha’s buffer zone. The air was cold, and the forest was damp from the rain. We came across fresh tiger pugmarks on the track, followed by alarm calls that prompted our guide and driver to look more closely at the surrounding trees. We followed the signs for a while, but the tiger remained out of sight. A herd of spotted deer appeared again, and the forest kept us occupied with shifting sounds and glimpses of movement. A light drizzle followed us on the drive back. At the camp, hot towels and ginger-honey tea were waiting after the chilly ride.

After a quick look around the property and some time to pack, we began the drive to Raipur airport, already planning our next trip in the hope of finally spotting the big cats.

Closest airports and railheads: Nagpur, Jabalpur, and Raipur.

Avg. room rates start at INR 13,000 (Pench); INR 17,000 (Rukhad) and INR 18,000 (Kanha).

Email: anoushkakundu@newindianexpress.com

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