China builds a giant city of ice every winter. Here’s how to see it

Somewhere in northeast China, an army of sculptors is preparing to build a city that has absolutely no interest in surviving the spring. Harbin’s annual International Ice and Snow Festival transforms winter into a surreal spectacle, with palaces carved from blocks of river ice, towers glowing sapphire and fuchsia after dark, and frozen corridors and slides that make even the most sensible adult feel like a kid let loose in a fairytale.

A city on borrowed time

Harbin Ice and Snow World is a monumental, temporary metropolis built from ice harvested from the frozen Songhua River. Founded in 1999, the attraction has grown into an enormous display of illuminated architecture, with each edition rebuilt from scratch. The 2026–27 opening date and ticket prices have not yet been officially confirmed, but the park typically opens in December and runs into February, weather permitting. January is a good bet for a trip, provided you check the dates before booking.

Go in the afternoon and stay until darkness takes over. Watching the structures shift from translucent blocks to glowing behemoths is the whole point. The place takes on an entirely different character after sunset, when its frozen architecture glows against the winter night.

Take a walk on the cold side

By daylight, head to Sun Island’s snow sculpture exhibition, where artists shape vast, intricate creations from packed snow. Then wander along Central Street, where European-style façades tell the story of Harbin’s past as a railway hub shaped by Russian influences. The city has plenty to offer beyond its ice-built kingdom, and its streets are worth exploring when you need a break from the cold.

Eat, drink and be freezing

Now, the important business: eating. Order guobaorou, Harbin’s crisp, sweet-and-sour pork; try the city’s Russian-style smoked red sausage; and warm up over dumplings or a hearty Northeastern Chinese stew. On Central Street, look for Madie’er ice cream. Eating ice cream outdoors in sub-zero temperatures may sound like an elaborate practical joke, but the locals are onto something.

Pick up red sausage and other regional specialities to take home, checking packaging and customs rules before packing food for India. A good meal is one thing; explaining a questionable souvenir to customs is quite another.

Dress like you mean it

Harbin’s winter can plunge well below freezing, so bring thermal base layers, a serious down coat, insulated boots, gloves and a hat. Hand warmers help, and keeping your phone tucked inside your coat can stop its battery from giving up before you do.

Start researching flights to Harbin Taiping International Airport and refundable hotels now, but wait for official festival dates before locking in non-refundable plans. Indian passport holders should check China’s current visa requirements well ahead of departure.

The extraordinary thing about Harbin is its impermanence. Every spring, the towers melt, the palaces collapse into water and the whole improbable kingdom disappears. You can see grand architecture in any number of cities. How many places give you the chance to walk through one that is already counting down to its own extinction?

Email: anoushkakundu@newindianexpress.com

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