Saris as kaftans to ikat printed mugs, Amethyst is where it is at

Anavila Mishra

While a newer generation of designers are still trying their hand at redefining slow fashion through indigenous craft, Anavila Mishra has already arrived. Saris from her collection are being touted as the most fashionable piece of clothing this season with the likes of Sonam Kapoor, Kalki Koechlin, and Vidya Balan as her patrons. Her 
collection ‘When We Look Back Tomorrow’ which echoes with the personality of her eponymous brand comes to the city with silhouettes beside the staple saris.“The DNA of the brand is comfort and ease through refined organic luxury. We have been able to evolve keeping our language and philosophy unchanged,” says the designer. This collection, which debuted at the Amazon India Fashion Week 2016, consists of ensembles where the petticoats add to the aesthetics of the design and saris with pockets. “We have introduced tunics sets and soft linen shirts into the collection,” says the 41-year-old designer. Expect to find classic summer palette of white, creams, beige and grey, in relaxed, languid drapes. “I like traditional sari drape on me, but I always look at giving it a different spin either the styling of the blouse or the way pallu is draped. I do enjoy quirks when it comes to sari styling, it is very refreshing,” says Anavila, who in her previous collection, employed the pojagi 
technique, which uses leftover fabric to create art-like textile. The designer will be working closely with artisans from Bhuj for her Autumn/Winter 17 collection that is expected feature printed petticoats, linen jackets or knitted slips teamed with the saris. `10,000 onwards.  Details: facebook.com/Anavila-216800401678024/

Naushad Ali

Naushad Ali’s summer/ resort collection, called A.seam| Without Boundaries is exactly what it sounds like – seamless and boundless fabric. The core idea, Naushad says was to take elements of the sari (like the pleats, the fall, and sometimes even the comfort and tradition associated with it), and re-imagine them. “The canvas, our base weave, is the sari. For instance, one of our popular pieces is a wrap skirt that is inspired from a sari’s pleats, which can be paired with a drop shoulder Japanese shirt,” says the designer, who first showcased the collection at Lakme Fashion Week earlier this year.  Keeping in mind the theme of the season, the collection at Amethyst will showcase about 30-40 silhouettes in fabrics such as cottons, silk cottons and linens. The collection of saris, skirts, crop tops (which can double as blouses), long dresses and the signature Naushad Ali maxis are available in happy and bright colours like yellows, indigos and deep tomato reds, featuring their trademark geometric style of checks and stripes on solids. `3,500 onwards. Details: facebook.com/naushadali.in/

The Burnt Soul

With a design language that sees ikat prints translating into scenes of daily life from Jodhpur, Monisha Bhandari’s design house is an amalgamation of leather and the vibrant handicraft traditions of Rajasthan. Having grown up in the by-lanes of the blue city, it is no wonder that this 24-year-old’s design sensibilities lean towards the artisanal techniques of the state. Find a range of accessories like handbags, totes, passport covers and even home and dining ware like solid mugs, coasters, table mats, trays at her showcase at Amethyst. “The collection carries designs of the city’s landscape — the Khejarla fort, the sky line — across all its lines besides the traditional ikat blockprints,” says the owner of the label The Burnt soul. Expect to find designs in colours like indigo, black, green and red that are staple to the blockprints of the region. While looking to explore other textile prints across the country, Monisha intends to continue with ikats for upcoming collections during the year. `375 onwards. Details: facebook.com/theburntsoul/

I am Trouble by KC

Kunal Chaterjee’s label resonates with his impassioned stories. Take for instance the origins behind the name of his brand ‘I am trouble’, a design philosophy that springs from this 30-year-old’s inherent wanderlust. “After my graduation, I lived the life of a backpacker for four years and travelled to almost seven different states.” The Delhi-based fashion designer who is showcasing in Amethyst  for the first time, draws heavily from his experiences on the road. In his fifth prêt collection titled Confession, expect to find shirt dresses, tunics, skirts, jackets and high waist pants with chequered prints and colour blocked patterns. Having started his label in 2015, the sartorial sensibilities of this NIFT graduate have evolved from abstract art to more darker undertones — think blacks, monochromatic hues and asymmetrical silhouettes. “I have been greatly influenced by Yohji Yamamoto,” he admits. Featuring fabric like cotton, linens and modal rayon with minimal surface work, the line also has his signature transformable necklines and oddly-placed zippers. With work underway for his Autumn/Winter collection, Kunal tells us that the collection is reminiscent of the streets of Pushkar. `5,400 onwards. 
Details: facebook.com/KunalChatterjeeByKunalChatterjee/